The Estelle – 243 High Street Northcote  

Just over a week ago on Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations, the bad boy of the kitchen gallivanted his way across the north of Spain, and I couldn’t help but feel jealous that this one country got to enjoy the spoils that are countless tapas and pinxtos bars, plus some of the world’s most revered and respected modern kitchens. Imagine then, discovering that just up the road in High Street Northcote, there’s a kitchen/bar occupied by a man who’s spent time at not only El Bulli and Arzac, but also Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck. It’s quite a pedigree, so should we be expecting something novel and rewarding out of The Estelle?

Yes. Yes we should.

To a degree, the interior of The Estelle reminds me of some of those Basque bars, a little brighter perhaps, but still feeling very much like a drinking establishment where loitering, eating and drinking are encouraged, almost in that order. A place to enjoy and to savour, to sit back in close surrounds and just relax and enjoy the dishes put in front of you.

And that’s another thing I love about the Estelle’s menu, although not everyone may. Each service, each day, diners can either sit at the bar and order some snacks or perhaps a charcuterie board, OR put themselves at the mercy of that very capable chef Ryan Flaherty. The options are three, five or seven courses with or without matching wines, and I’d say given the size of the dishes, five courses is probably a good minimum. While the menu has a number of cryptic dishes under the headings of Vegetable, Fish, Meat, and Sweet Stuff – it really is a case of sitting back and waiting to see what’s fresh today and what the kitchen have decided to prepare.

Fossilised sardines were exactly what you’d expect of someone who’d spend time in those fancy European kitchens – dried fish, deep-fried in tapioca and presented in a glass atop whipped sour cream and black salt. Salty, crispy, and completely different to anything I’ve ever tasted.

Beetroot & ashed goats cheese is a bit of an artwork, a dark plate dressed with pickled beetroot and radish, tangy orange jelly, microherbs and clumps of that ashed Yarra Valley cheese – it’s not a man sized serve by any means, but it’s a brilliant combination of flavours and textures, and a perfect example of how goats cheese doesn’t have to taste like it would be considered punishment in some cultures.

A small terracotta dish arrived covered in foam and smelling like paprika. Our waiter forgot momentarily to give us a hint as to what it contained, and I couldn’t help but wait until I got eye contact and an eventual explanation – this was the mussels and chorizo cooked with orzo. I’m not sure if my palate just isn’t refined enough, but the foam didn’t wow me nor did it repulse me – so not sure whether it was there for the flavour or the theatre. But the risotto-like creation underneath was perfect - smoky chorizo, big fresh mussels and the pasta we’d usually refer to as risoni.

The next plate was perhaps the most unusual – a strange, neutral looking palette that consisted of soft, creamy polenta, a slow cooked poached egg, buerre blanc sauce and shavings of parmesan. So there were these similar textures, and various shades of cream and yellow – but the unexpected intensity comes from the piquant beurre blanc and gorgeous cheesy goodness in the polenta.

Slow cooked lamb breast was my dish of the day – again, not a huge serve by any means,  but when you calculate that across the meal you’re spending about $11 a dish, I’ll happily pay that for the grub that was coming our way. It’s a fatty cut, but in the best possible way, and this wedge sat atop carrot puree, with caramelised carrot slices, a rich jus and soft, chewy truffle gnocchi. One of those dishes you never want to end.

Dessert was a bit of a battle for me, I don’t think anyone will ever knock my socks off with a rice pudding (and I’d never willingly order it from a menu) but it was presented before me, and it wasn’t a bad dish. This one got it’s light, citrus highlights from a mandarin couli, and some extra texture from puffed wild rice on top.

I don’t think you necessarily need to do the wine matching, I sat happily on a glass of Portuguese Loureiro ($11) and then a decent Chianti ($13), which would save you the extra $40 that option would put on the bill.

It’s not a tummy filling feast, but at $55, this five course “tasting” is a fantastic way to taste some creative, sophisticated cooking from a fantastic local chef – and what an amazing thing to see these guys returning from some of the most respected kitchens in the world and choosing to share their experience with us in a low key, neighbourhood setting.

PLAY AUDIO: Ela talks about 'The Estelle' with Ross and John

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3AW Food - Eating Melbourne

3AW is Food: Melburnians love to eat so it's fortunate we live in the culinary capital of Australia. On this dedicated food page you will find the latest recipes by Bob Hart as well as Tony Leonard's Pub of the Week reviews. La Luna head chef Adrian Richardson also serves up a dish from his own cook book and food reviewer Ela Carte visits one of Melbourne's hottest eateries weekly.