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Thursday May 17, 2012

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Ela Carte: Escar-got to Bistro Gitan

Posted by: Ela Carte | 19 December, 2011 - 1:14 PM
Snails

Bistro Gitan – 52 Toorak Rd West South Yarra – www.bistrogitan.com.au 

We often talk about the pedigree of an eatery and its employees, and it doesn’t get much better than this. Imagine the three offspring of Jacque Reymond getting together to open a French-inspired bistro in South Yarra.

With the word “Gitan” meaning gypsy, the Reymonds have licence to draw their inspiration from France, Spain, Italy and beyond; but there are some undoubtedly Franco inclusions on the menu, from escargot to Croque Monsieur and Madame.

The old Fawkner Club is still recognisable, the interior is stylish with a definite Mediterranean feel. Timber tables, neutral tones, and chunky vintage lighting punctuate the room and on this Wednesday night there’s a definite buzz – the suits and the well dressed couples seem to have well and truly embraced the building’s new incarnation.

It’s hard to judge a place on service so close to Christmas, it’s quite obviously peak season for the hospitality industry and Bistro Gitan was no exception. It took some time to attract the attention of wait staff long enough to request a glass of wine, and that went for water and wine refills later in the piece. Once staff were waved down, they were a wealth of information, patiently explaining the abundance of French and Spanish terms littered throughout the menu and lusciously describing each dish in detail.

I can finally say it …I ate snails! I’m sure there was a primary school experiment once where we were threatened with the experience as punishment, but this was certainly the first time I’ve put one of the mollusks in my gob! I have heard it said before that if you drown anything in enough butter and garlic it’s bound to taste good, but this quite seriously was divine in every regard. The texture was dreamy, not exactly chewy but enough resistance that you had a conception of the creature you’re devouring. If I had to compare it, I suppose it would fall somewhere within the seafood realm – similarities to abalone (but not as chewy) and maybe scallops and clams.

While in pure French mode, we requested the Croque Madame, this version containing blue swimmer crab and palm hearts in place of ham, with a creamy, cheesy top. Not necessarily an entrée I’d order again, it really is a great cheesy toasted sandwich that’d I’d prefer to be eating at the bar with a beer.

Ocean trout a la plancha in contrast was gloriously light, thin grilled trout fillets with spiced cucumber and melon, and a kicking horseradish aioli – this was a definite winner on the night.

Great to see some simple inclusions on the mains menu, but a number of fabulous specials each and every night. We bypassed the lamb rump with glazed beetroot and other goodies on the blackboard and stuck with the paper version. Oven baked Hapuka fillet was a smaller dish but rich all the same, with mushrooms, bacon, white sweet onions and sorrel.

The spatchcock was a generous serve indeed, the whole bird in parts, atop butter savoy cabbage, with a mustard crust (a little creative a term, I’d say but definite hints of mustard) and a “devil sauce”. I couldn’t finish this one, again, really simple flavours but wonderfully well cooked bird.

Being a French restaurant the desserts were decidedly tempting, and the Peach Franigipane was a fine way to finish. A little surprising, the tarte was inside the half peach, a subtle almond mixture where the pip should be, with macerated cherries and creamy icecream on the side.

There’s no doubting the quality of food on offer, and with great local and European wines at reasonable prices, and extremely knowledgeable staff on hand there’s a lot to like about Bistro Gitan. On this experience, it’s not the sort of place you’d pop into for a quick weeknight meal, this was anything but, and simple tasks like filling water glasses should be a given in even the most relaxed restaurants – but it’s worth pointing out that online “punter” reviews to date have praised the briskness and friendliness of service. One the evenings where this all comes together, it’d be a fabulous establishment in which to enjoy the best of France and surrounds.

Ela Carte on 3AW Breakfast

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