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Sunday February 12, 2012

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Ela Carte reviews Kinglake Pub

Posted by: Ela Carte, 3AW Breakfast | 5 September, 2010 - 4:08 PM

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RELATED AUDIO:

Ela Carte speaks to Ross and John about Kinglake Pub

REVIEW: Heading to Kinglake there’s kilometres of black, stark, hilly terrain, but still the signs are promising.

From charred trees wrapped in fresh, green shoots and leaves; to a multitude of construction vehicles and workmen getting lunch at the bakery once you arrive in the township; this is certainly a town in recovery mode.

The Kinglake Pub (formerly National Park Hotel) is the historic building that many locals fled to when all seemed lost. It was closed for a time post-fires and even when it re-opened there was a lull in trade, but it’s now been bought by a pretty remarkable guy and all seems back on track.

Chris Owen dropped everything in the days after Black Saturday, and after wandering into 3AW one afternoon and offering to drive some supplies up the mountain, he ended up volunteering his valuable experience running busy pub kitchens to feed hoardes of locals, volunteers and emergency service personnel each night for six weeks.

Just over a year later the Port Melbourne local took over the freehold at the pub, and began work once again feeding locals, bringing them together and trying to draw outsiders back to the area.

It’s a country pub – there’s no bells or whistles here. A great open fire with some leather lounges in front. A  bistro. A public bar with some pool tables; and a standalone restaurant out the back that operates some evenings.

The menu’s split up into “Old Favourites” (think Corned Beef, Rissoles and Bacon, Chicken Parma, Lamb Cutlets, Fish and Chips), Steaks; and there’s a great “Specials Board” which just about doubles the available options.

Staff exude country hospitality and they encourage table service. The 500g Rib Eye was an absolute phenomenon, and at $33 unbelievably good value. Specials on the day included Eggplant Parmagiana ($15), Tandoori chicken ($15), and a very extravagant sounding Wild Barramundi with lemon pepper crust with lemon risotto and roquette ($25).

I went for the Chicken and Mushroom pie ($15), a creamy number with a delightfully puffy (removable) top, leek, celery, mash on the side and a big serve of fresh peas. These meals are great, homestyle, heartwarming dishes that at extremely good prices – the chicken parma is possibly the best value in town at $15.

Chris and his chefs use high quality meats, local produce, and make their sauces from scratch. This is a place that’s great to visit, but that also feels like a much-visited, loved local watering hole. Plenty of tables reserved on the Saturday arvo, thankfully Chris has grand plans to extend the eatery, open the kitchen, and get some more punters in from near and far.

Top value standard wine list, glasses from $6.50, bottles up to $38 for a decent Shiraz.

While you’re there, grab a copy of Chris’ Kinglake Pub cookbook, full of the recipes he cooked for hungry locals a the relief centre, with all proceeds going to the CFA.

3AW Food - Eating Melbourne

Spain food 3AW is Food: Melburnians love to eat so it's fortunate we live in the culinary capital of Australia. On this dedicated food page you will find the latest recipes by Bob Hart as well as Tony Leonard's Pub of the Week reviews. La Luna head chef Adrian Richardson also serves up a dish from his own cook book and food reviewer Ela Carte visits one of Melbourne's hottest eateries weekly.

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