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Thursday May 17, 2012

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Ela chooses Franco Choos

Posted by: Ela Carte | 26 September, 2011 - 3:09 PM
Franco

Franco Choos – 179A High St Prahran www.francochoos.com.au

No offence, but I wouldn’t normally take it upon myself to head out to dinner on Chapel St on a Saturday night. It’s just not my scene. So imagine sitting down for quiet dinner, less than a block from frenetic Chapel Street Prahran and feeling like you could be any tranquil, inner suburban, classy bistro.

You can do it at Franco Choos, which is on High Street Prahran, but a stone’s throw from the all the action. Owner/chef Steven Choo set out to create a small, rustic bistro – and he’s done it effectively. The room very much feels like it’s been there for an age – the menu exists only on a blackboard, the wooden crates affixed to the wall are filled with retro looking tins of tomatoes and the like; and the wooden furniture is suitably weathered.

Said menu is a great mix of quality Mediterranean fare and Asian influences, the wines are fabulous local Victorian examples of Italian varietals.

Things are certainly cosy, as Franco Choos seats a maximum of 25 guests on just ten tables, and each night the menu consists of only two entrees, two mains, and two desserts from which diners can choose – so you’d better hope they’re good!

Last weekend, the entrees were poached crystal bay prawns, potatoes, capers, and fennel puree; or parpadelle with venison ragu and chocolate. Two more different dishes you could hardly get, but I supposed that means they’ll appeal to disparate diners. The prawn was perfect for a night that gave one of the first touches of summer, perfectly poached seafood, soft potato cubes, that aromatic puree and gorgeous fresh broadbeans – lovely and light. The venison was polar opposite, but equally enticing – housemade pasta, slow cooked rich ragu with a cocoa lilt, it felt that bit more substantial.

Main for me was far too easy a choice, the Chicken boudin with aromatic broth and sticky rice cake sounded interesting enough, but it was always going to be a hard job to convince me I shouldn’t jump on the roast Berkshire pork belly with lentils, brussel sprouts and agrodolce sauce. Seriously, this was a lovely dish – the combination of fat and well cooked flesh on the pork melting in the mouth, with the obligatory crunch of an almost carbonized piece of crackling. I’m usually adverse to the brussel sprout due to minor childhood psychological abuse in the form of the vegetable as a constant threat should I not eat any given green, but these were sliced thin, paired with caramelised red onion and that sauce that to me tasted more like a type of jus. I’m sure the chicken was lovely, but you couldn’t have paid me to miss that pork!

Shouldn’t have had room for dessert, but we did share one and it was worth it. The Pistachio praline semifreddo was most impressive because of its lack of sweetness, creamy semifreddo, with the crunch of nuts and chewy praline, and a bitter hit from that blood orange. Great way to finish.

Worth noting that the limited menu extends to the wine list, just two reds and two whites available by the glass, and they’re not your average varietals – for the whites, one’s a mega-blend of Pinot Grigio, Friulano, Chardonnay, Moscato Giallo and Riesling; the other’s a Verdehlo – but staff will happily let you taste each to help with a decision. Great boutique Victorian wines and ciders on offer, and classic Italian Aperitifs.

Prices are reasonable – entrees up to $15, mains all $25 or under, it meant a fantastic night out for $115 for two.

Having a small menu is anything but dull, it just means you have to change it up a bit, which is what Steven Choo does at least every fortnight, continuously evolving according to the season’s top produce and the chef’s own whims.

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