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Thursday May 17, 2012

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Ela feasts at The Long Table

Posted by: Ela Carte | 6 January, 2012 - 1:43 PM
Long table

The Long Table – 159 Shoreham Road Red Hill South – www.thelongtable.com.au

When we think Mornington Peninsula or Red Hill, it’s all rolling hills and vineyards, but there’s a bit of a hidden gem in a shopping strip on Shoreham Road that is well worth a look in.

The Long Table this year earned itself an Age Good Food Guide chef’s hat, and it’s easy to see why. Set on split levels, the feel is spacious and classy – tables are spread out and the décor is almost rustic in its warmth and simplicity.

For most of the year, the bottom level is a wine and tapas bar, although over the peak summer period, this too is set aside at night for restaurant dining. The kitchen is partly open with a large window framing the action within.

The menu is expansive, dishes are a little cryptic at time so it’s handy to have staff who can easily reel off the exact components of each meal with impressive accuracy. The Blue Swimmer crab roll for entrée was exactly as described by our super-efficient waitress, a mousse-like filling of crab and fish incased in crusty brioche atop a sweetcorn mayo, shaved fennel with crunchy chicken skins on the side. The textures and tastes were fabulous, although I can’t say the chicken skins added much in terms of flavour.

Housemade black pudding was rich and fresh, complemented by plump prawn, sweet smoked shallots and toffeed apple.

For main, the Jamon crusted Bass Grouper was an obvious choice – it came with dark dashi rice, cucumber and fried zucchini flowers. Interestingly the Spanish jamon was placed on top and the “crust” came once again from a thin layer of crunchy brioche. The dish was terrifically light, with subtle but distinct flavours.

More punchy was the Grass fed aged sirloin steak that was actually poached first then roasted, served on a wooden board with slicks of black garlic, ashed celeriac in the form of a tasty, doughy ball, watercress and shallots. This was definitely the bloke’s choice of the night, but I would have ravished it had I ordered it.

On the side, zucchini chunks were marinated in lemon oil and Szechuan pepper.

Prices are definitely on the steep side, but given the quality it’s fairly appropriate. ALL entrees, however, are $20 – which is definitely pricey by any standard; while the carnivorous mains are $38 and the one vegetarian option was $34. The wine bar menu is a great option if it’s a cheaper night you’re after, smaller tapas dishes are around $9, there are some bigger options for $15 and some share plate (like charcuterie board and selection of cured, smoked and raw seafood) for $20-$30.

The Long Table kitchen makes a big effort to use regional produce where it can, and the wine list is similarly local. There are a few inclusions from Tassie, Europe and NZ, but an admirably generous offering of fine drops from the Mornington Peninsula; by the glass they range from $9-13.

There were just a number of little touches to the menu, the ambience and the service at The Long Table that made it a relaxing, impressive, and enjoyable experience – and that really is nice to be able to say. 

PLAY: Ela Carte with Tony and Darren

3AW Food Directory

3AW Food 3AW is Food: Melburnians love to eat so it's fortunate we live in the culinary capital of Australia. On this dedicated food page you will find the latest recipes by Bob Hart as well as Tony Leonard's Pub of the Week reviews. La Luna head chef Adrian Richardson also serves up a dish from his own cook book and food reviewer Ela Carte visits one of Melbourne's hottest eateries weekly.

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