Talk about this new fad of pop ups, this week I popped up in Mission Beach to check on the small town’s recovery post-cyclone Yasi and basically to eat my way through coastal tropical north Queensland.

Despite having visited the broader region previously, I’d never made my way south of Cairns, so this was a first, and as such it was difficult to assess just how prolific the cyclone damage was. I wanted to compare it to a landscape post-bushfire, there was the fuzzy green growth appearing around otherwise bare trunks, but then unlike the burnt bushland I’ve seen here in Victoria there’s no charred wood and the undergrowth was nearly untouched – so it was still wonderfully green.

That said, driving off the Bruce Highway into the township, it’s certainly obvious that the rainforest has taken a battering - but it’s not off-putting and it’s not unattractive, just a little intriguing I suppose.  The main settlement of Mission Beach looks in remarkable shape, plenty of bright new buildings, and nary a tarp to be seen. The beach is probably more devoid of palm trees than it had been, but then I hadn’t seen it before so to me it was still a gloriously long expanse of sand, with a splattering of palms, islands in the distance, and plenty of sunshine.

 And even when you’re done lazing on the beach, there’s natural watering holes to soak in further south in Tully, regular trips out to the Barrier Reef or nearby islands, waterfall circuits a short drive away in the hinterland, not to mention dairies, distilleries, chocolate factories and more within a hour or two’s drive.

And when you’re not doing any of those exciting activities – well, of course you can eat, and believe me there is no shortage of options in Mission Beach.

My first meal was enjoyed at the newly opened Fish Bar and it was a pretty good sign of things to come – a whole cray with creamy garlic sauce, chips and salad for $35 (yes, thirty five dollars); and the seafood laksa special was full of seafood and similarly great value.

The Sandbar café was a great stop for lunchtime tapas or woodfired pizzas, but the must-visit daytime spot for atmosphere alone has to be the low-key Shrubbery Taverna which has the textbook beachfront views with regular appearances from skydivers landing just metres away on the sand.

For a more substantial feed, there’s no going past Bernie’s Bar – a relaxed eatery with a great local feel, and the best roasts in town. My roast chicken was so succulent I couldn’t sworn mum was manning the kitchen, but it was definitely Bernie in charge, and there was no way I’d be able to finish the overloaded plate in front of me that set me back just $25.

Down the road in Wongaling, Nana Thai has another of those impressive seaviews, the outdoor dining and BYO grog gives it a great, casual air – food is fragrant and fresh, and it’s an impressively extensive menu.

The newest kid on the block is Zenbah, its bright funky exterior might disguise the fine dining focus, but believe me the Michelin-starred chef at the helm has designed a menu that wouldn’t look out of place in an inner city Melbourne diner.  From quail entrees to duck leg confit mains, it’s impressive stuff;  fresh seafood made an appearance in a tasty nasi goreng and red curry crusted fish of the day. Despite the fancy fare, mains don’t exceed $30 and even all cocktails came in under $15.

For the real special occasion stuff, it’s got to be the exclusive Elandra Resort, right at the end of South Mission Beach. Be warned, if you’re out to enjoy yourself and have a couple of wines, a taxi from Mission Beach will cost you at least $35 each way, but it is a million dollar view and a James Bond feel with the clifftop swimming pool and white daybeds just beside the outdoor restaurant. Pan seared scallops were paired with chorizo, rockmelon and a refreshing salad; melon also featured in a chilled ginger soup with brilliant five spice deep-fried duck liver wontons – all types of wrong, but so very right! The special main of Duck Ravioli with a burnt butter sauce and pear and fennel salad was perfectly al dente and just a beautiful combination of flavours, what could easily have been too rich was just simple and subtle. Elandra presented us with the dish of the week, fittingly a desert involving the fruit that probably best typifies the region – in the form of a deconstructed banana crumble. Slivers of cooked banana alongside a strip of sweet crumble, a bowl of warm chocolate sauce, and a great big scoop of creamy coconut icecream. This was DIY bliss.

There was so much more we wanted to try, but it’s nice to have a reason to go back I suppose. I have to admit being more than a little nervous after booking this trip, as much as I wanted to support the region I also selfishly wanted a pretty indulgent break, and it was just so simple to combine the two. This place is a gem, a laid back piece of paradise that I have no double I will visit again.

PLAY: Ela Carte with Ross and John

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3AW Food - Eating Melbourne

3AW is Food: Melburnians love to eat so it's fortunate we live in the culinary capital of Australia. On this dedicated food page you will find the latest recipes by Bob Hart as well as Tony Leonard's Pub of the Week reviews. La Luna head chef Adrian Richardson also serves up a dish from his own cook book and food reviewer Ela Carte visits one of Melbourne's hottest eateries weekly.