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Papa Goose (and Loose Goose bar) 91-93 Flinders Lane City - www.papagoose.com.au 

One of the most frequent questions I’m asked is where’s a good option for pre-show dinner or snacks, where you can actually get a table without selling your soul, and that won’t break the bank. Of course, there are plenty of dining options early on a Saturday night around the city depending on what sort of cuisine you’re after, but one I stumbled upon recently is Papa Goose.

Set over two stories, Papa Goose encompasses fine dining downstairs, and a terrific long bar upstairs with a share menu. It was to the Loose Goose bar that we headed – let’s face it, I’m always a sucker for a menu that lets me try lots of different things.

First – being that it’s a bar, I should praise the cocktails. Creative list, with none of the old reliables (although I have no doubt they’d make them for you). I was transported to a tennis club along the Thames by the “Slow Blush” – a concoction of Sloe Gin, Campari, Crushed Watermelon, topped with soda. Over the river at the rowing club, “The Henley” boasted gin, Pimms, guava, cucumber, lime and mint.

What I liked about this menu in particular is that it didn’t feel unhealthy. Often when you’re eating little bites they all seem oily, fatty, fried – and generally guilt-inducing. But at the Loose Goose, there’s some terrific tasty, light alternatives (along with some gorgeous friend indulgences – did someone say croquettes?). So starting with the littler stuff, yes, I did indulge in salt cod croquettes, and yes, I did enjoy them. Char-grilled stuffed baby calamari were light and tender, with a subtle lemon infused oil.

And it’s those larger share plates that have a great abundance of light, fresh food. Beetroot salad comes with orange segments, capers, red onion, and smatterings of gooey goat’s curd. The confit ocean trout is scattered among baby salad leaves, slices of fennel, fresh peas, and mint leaves. For something a little richer there’s the warm duck salad, paired with lentils and grapes and a Madeira dressing.

Don’t get me wrong, there are wonderfully naughty things on the menu too, like Spiced Pork Belly with chorizo, fennel, apple and the wonderful Pedro Ximenez; there’s sautéed morcilla with scallops, cannellini and tomato; and for the adventurous a beer tartare with shallots, horseradish parsley and mint.

I guess at the end of the day, what I like about the Loose Goose is that there’s an option for everybody. Vegeterians are well looked after. Meat eaters can devour a lamb shoulder, or eat their beef raw. There’s scallops, whiting, sardines and cuttlefish for the seafood lovers. And if you’re watching your weight, or all deep-fried out, there’s some great fresh produce in abundance.

Importantly, at 6.30pm on a Saturday night you’ll get a space at the bar, or a table and some stools without too many worries, but it’ll start to fill up and you’ll get some atmosphere by 7.30pm, just as you’re ready to walk to the theatre. The big windows at the front let you check out the street art in the nearby lane, or watch the world wander up Flinders Lane.

On the drinks menu - beers aren’t cheap at $8-13, wines by the glass a more acceptable $9-13, and bottles starting at around $40. As I said, we quite enjoyed being able to quickly share a half bottle of Spanish white, and it was brilliant value at $20.

All up, in terms of the end bill - it’s pretty good value for it’s central location. For two smaller bites, three larger plates, two cocktails and a shared half bottle of Spanish white it was $115 for two. If you’re thinking of trying the more substantial dining area downstairs, a great way would be to take advantage of their week day lunch special – main, side, glass of wine and coffee for $30. Check the website for more details.

I recall a conversation I had with head chef Neale White recently. He explained the menu downstairs at Papa Goose is what he wanted to create as a chef – imaginative, challenging and impressive - and upstairs he’s indulged in a menu that is basically what he wants to eat when he’s done for the night and relaxing with friends – it fit that bill for me!

PLAY AUDIO: Ela's review of Papa Goose

3AW Food - Eating Melbourne

3AW is Food: Melburnians love to eat so it's fortunate we live in the culinary capital of Australia. On this dedicated food page you will find the latest recipes by Bob Hart as well as Tony Leonard's Pub of the Week reviews. La Luna head chef Adrian Richardson also serves up a dish from his own cook book and food reviewer Ela Carte visits one of Melbourne's hottest eateries weekly.