Welcome to 3AW. Skip directly to: Search Box, Section Navigation, Content.

3AW - Fairfax Radio Network

Tuesday May 22, 2012

What we're talking about

Ela Carte tries the tapas at Lulo

Posted by: Ela Carte | 11 March, 2011 - 10:44 AM
Pork Belly with Pedro Ximenez Prune and Cauliflower Chip

Lulo – 798 Glenferrie Road Hawthorn www.lulo.com.au

Great tapas is not confined to the CBD. It’s not even confined to the one restaurant that comes to mind any time Spanish cuisine is mentioned. And importantly, great tapas doesn’t necessarily mean stock standard, traditionally cooked favourites.

Lulo in Hawthorn is breaking the mould somewhat, churning out what I guess you might call “fancy tapas”. There are some old school dishes on the menu, but they’re done with a bit of creative flair, and often uniquely presented. Octopus might come in a clean, functional silver tin, while olives stuffed with anchovy, goats cheese, capsicum or guindilla peppers arrive at the table in a checkerboard arrangement.

But it isn’t enough to just look good, of course the tucker has to follow through in taste, and on the whole it really does at Lulo. From the “Uno Tapas” at the start of the menu priced per piece, the Rabbit Chorizo mini burger is brilliant value at $6.50. Home made rabbit chorizo burger pattie packed with smoked paprika and spice with caramelized wild onion, authentic Spanish jamon, piquillo pepper and some gorgeously salty, crispy plaintain chips on the side. Saltcod & potato croquettes ($5 each) are softer than expected without the usual crumbed outer, and they’re accompanied by a refreshing garlicky gespacho soup on the side.

Patatas Bravas are a tried and true option, but even they come with a twist at Lulo. Presented as individual cylinders of soft potato, they’re topped with aioli and that marvelous Mojo sauce. Western Plains Pork belly ($22)  is fatty and chewy and a little guilt-inducing, but complemented beautifully with Pedro Ximenez soaked prunes and surprisingly good cauliflower chips – I’ve now been reminded twice in two weeks how ridiculously good cauliflower can taste (and the seven year old child in me still finds it hard to believe).

Surprises of the day included a bowl of School Whiting fillets wrapped in leek with smoked mackerel, arvuga caviar and artichoke cream, after some of the other powerful flavours this was perfectly subtle; and the standout of the day which was from the specials board – bone marrow croquettes ($8 each). You want to talk guilt-inducing? This is it. Crunchy fried crumbed outer, and ridiculously gooey inside, these were melt in the mouth good. They came with pretty glasses of beef consommé offered as a palate cleanser to clear the fatty taste of the croquettes – they went largely untouched, the “goo” was no doubt what made it taste so good!

Owner and head chef Matt Waldron really is pushing the boundaries at Lulo, it would be no doubt be much easier to produce and sell tried and true Spanish dishes, but the menu at Lulo is much more inspired and adventurous than one might expect for a suburban tapas bar. Serving sizes for some items may be smaller than expected (such as the Octopus or Patatas Bravas) and the some of the more unusual combinations may not please everyone. That said, there’s a good range of different sized dishes at prices ranging from $4 for single items to $28 for larger share plates, and the majority of those we tasted were great. And, if you just can’t choose, Lulo offers two degustation options for tables of two or more.

Great to see absolute commitment to the style of cuisine, with an entirely Spanish and Latin American wine list, with bottles ranging from $35 - $70-ish and a huge selection of beers from the same regions.

Another great way to enjoy Lulo is to keep an eye out for their Monday night degustation menus. These can be phenomenal value, with the last one priced at $95 for 8 tapas dishes and 8 matching wines.  
 

3AW Food - Eating Melbourne

3AW Food 3AW is Food: Melburnians love to eat so it's fortunate we live in the culinary capital of Australia. On this dedicated food page you will find the latest recipes by Bob Hart as well as Tony Leonard's Pub of the Week reviews. La Luna head chef Adrian Richardson also serves up a dish from his own cook book and food reviewer Ela Carte visits one of Melbourne's hottest eateries weekly.

Blog comments Your Say

Post a comment * Mandatory fields