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Leftovers

Posted by: Bob Hart | 4 April, 2011 - 10:55 AM
Leftovers

BRITISH food writer Jay Rayner has been going on about left-overs - suggesting that in these straitened financial times, we have to make good use of every last bit of food.

He also points out that he likes leftovers, often, better than the dish from which they were left over in the first place. Especially, he loves bubble and squeak, which is a fine thing.

Actually, I make bubble and squeak cakes according to a recipe from a TV series, last year, from British cook Nigel Slater. But rather than simply eat them on their own, I serve them with grilled fish, grilled chicken, or with a fried egg on top and a few strips of bacon. Try this:

Take enough leftover (or new) mash to make four rough discs each about 7-10cm wide and a bit more than 1cm deep. But before you make them, wash and roughly chop 3 thick (or 6 thin) spring onions. Discard the green extremities and put the rest into a medium-hot pan with a generous chunk of butter and a drizzle of EV olive oil to prevent it from burning.

While the spring onions are cooking, remove the seeds from 3-4 cardamom pods and place in a mortar with 1tsp of coriander seeds and another of cumin seeds. Grind them coarsely with a pestle.

Add the spices to the spring onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions colour. Do not let them burn. Add them to the mash in a bowl, mix well and shape into four cakes with your hands. Return the cakes to the hot frypan and cook until crisp and brown on each side – just a few minutes – and remove to a warm plate.

For a quick sauce, suggestss Slater, slosh 150ml fresh cream into the hot pan with a handful of fresh coriander leaves. Bring to the boil, season well and serve as a sauce with the bubble and squeak cakes.

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