3AW Pub Of The Year 2009
ABOVE: Take a video tour of the Grand Hotel, Richmond.
THE CONCLUSION: In 2009, a total of 40 pubs were reviewed in this segment with a total of 6 achieving 15+, while 5 fell below 13, which broadly speaking is my mid-range mark.
I feel that those people who have their own local owner/operator (mainly in the inner suburbs, but happy to extend to Williamstown) have been flush with excellent pub options this year, and encouraging is the number of new players into the market.
A little further out though, and not much has changed and worryingly (from my pub POV) the sportsbar/large dining room/pokies template that dominates the suburban landscape doesn’t look like changing. Food runs to a basic, same offering that has few, if any show stoppers.
To all operators, large and small, my only request is that greater care be taken with the standard of tap beer; increasingly greasy glasses, over/under carbonated stale beer, mixing of slow moving barrels with popular brands, makes for a dull/bitter taste. Also how about some 200ml glasses as an option if you are fair dinkum about responsible serving?
Pizza is the dish dotting pub menus in 2009, and done well – Baden Powell, Collingwood, take a bow – makes an excellent addition to consider. The BPH is in my top 3 for 2009. Easily the best refurbished pub in Melbourne, the ambience is relaxed, the food and bev excellent, and will go from strength to strength.
Although technically returning to his roots in late 2008, it was wonderful to have John Rubira back in Melbourne doing his seafood thing this year.
Rubiras@Swallows Port Melbourne is also in my final 3. What I like most is that this is a pub doing great seafood, rather than at his Jika Hotel in the 1990’s, where it was more a restaurant in a pub. Swallows has always had that dash of cache and this is a perfect, cosy place to showcase his 45 years of experience in the seafood game. It is a ripper.
But to the 2009 3AW DEBORTOLI Pub of the Year.
It is easy as I said in the review to join in the chorus, but The Grand, Richmond, adds this to its already impressive CV. All the elements of the pub work cohesively from the neat beer garden, lovely front bar to the wonderful dining room banging it out great, regional Italian Pub tucker.
Yes, it costs more, but equally the value is there. It is not a posh pub; it remains committed to the locals as being that place of comfort.
The Grand Hotel, Burnley Street, Richmond. 2009 Pub of the Year.
In closing, thank you to all of the listeners/readers for the feedback and suggestions.
REVIEW:
Pub: Grand Hotel
Where: 333 Burnley St., Richmond
Phone: 9429 2530
Date: 30 October 2009
Score: 16/20
The Grand Hotel is wonderful.
From every award that it has garnered over their “new” journey to every glowing and gushing review it receives is thoroughly deserved; mine, today, is no different.
I don’t deviate from the basics that I look for in a pub and that is great draught beer, clean environment, welcoming staff and food that represents real value. In short, the most personal of questions “do I want to be here”?
Yes, is your instantaneous reaction.
Sure there are hotels whose food is so good that it rivals any restaurant in town. But to truly wear the pubs badge of honour, they must have more than that; they should be places of comfort and community and this is where the Grand completes the hospitality equation.
Situated in the increasingly blocked artery known as Burnley St., the pub’s exterior is plain but once inside, the deceptively large front bar (situated towards the rear), complete with benches and booths allows you to spread out comfortably.
Beer is excellent: a clean finish that confirms lines are done regularly and the glasses are properly treated. Tick.
An “L” shaped courtyard/beer garden gives another dimension to the pub and so neatly set out, it invites you to take your drink there. Soon you become oblivious to the traffic choking the street outside.
You will eat brilliantly in the front bar if you choose, mostly under $20. Given prices in most basic standard pub dining rooms hover around this rate, I know where the better value exists.
Aah, but the dining room is the oasis of the pub.
Deep, dark colours, tables set out with plenty of space, top notch bread and chilled water brought without asking and knowledgeable front of house, your instincts tell you that whatever the cost, this is will be enjoyable.
The food is superior Italian; pub, restaurant, whatever you care to measure against. The Grand does not shrink by comparison.
So inviting was the pasta, my guest tried the house made gnocchi with napoli and basil ($18.50). The alternative sauce is brown butter and sage. Soft and delicate flavours, it is a dish often assassinated in less professional hands. Not here.
One of the signature dishes is the Vincisgrassi (18.5/25/5). Thin sheets of lasagne (again made at The Grand), the twist being the filling comprises offal and meats, rather than béchamel/tomato. The entree size is sufficient to confirm that this ranks as one of Melbourne’s best pasta dishes.
Two other meals were tried. An entree size of grilled king prawns wrapped in pancetta ($21) with lentils (not bad) and Fish of the Day, a glorious slab of crispy skinned Kingfish ($32), salsa verde with a natty fry up of anchovies and capers and a lovely splodge of olive oil over the fish
This is how pubs should present fish; day in day out. Firm, blindingly white flesh, cooked expertly. A great, luscious meal.
So in for a penny etc., a dessert was shared. Tiramisu ($12) and not surprisingly, it excelled.
The wine list is thoughtfully set out; again a reflection of the pub’s direction. Mt. Langi Ghiran Cliff Edge Shiraz ($46) was very fair shopping.
Now to the tale of the tape - $170 for two, all inclusive in the dining room. In its rawest extraction, (and still holding true to the maxim of ‘it’s only a pub’), you can think of this on the high side, although increasingly fair to moderate pub dining, all-in, will set you back at least $100.
Set aside any price prejudices – this is real value.
It is easy join in the chorus of approval here, but having returned for the first time in ages, The Grand really is an absolute pub treasure of Melbourne.
3AW's Pub Of The Decade
3AW's food doyen Tony Loenard estimates he has been to hundreds of pubs
as part of his reviewing duties for the Neil Mitchell program in the
last 10 years. Find out which one gets his esteemed rating as the Best
Pub Of The Decade and take a virtual tour.
3AW Pub Of The Week 2009
3AW Pub Of The Week is back - and better than ever - on 3AW.com.au.
Take the tour through Victoria's best and worst pubs with our expert,
Tony Leonard. Click the image of Tony Leonard on the right to read all of the reviews for 2009.
