Pub:                       Hotel Lincoln
Where:                 91 Cardigan St., Carlton
Phone:                 9347 4666
Date:                     24 June 2011
Score:                   17/20
internet:              www.hotellincoln.com.au

OVERVIEW:

If you want a snap shot as to why Melbourne pubs are the envy of the nation, the Lincoln has been one of  your ‘go to men’  for the past decade.  In equal measure, if you want to know why our pubs will stay ahead of the pack for the next decade, then the Lincoln is your ‘go to man’ NOW.

It has been three years since I last visited and the pub was in my top 4 of 2008.  Simply the mix of traditional bar, no distractions from the horses or machines, range of beer, great bar and restaurant food, all tied together with owner/operator hospitality, made for the perfect mix.

Chefs/cooks move on: In Graham Sutherland the pub had one of our best.  His replacement Ross Beeley has learned his trade well under Graham and before that Michael Lambie, two fine tutors.

The direction of the Lincoln has not waivered.  Serve good food and drink at different price points, engage the customer, have a Sunday/Monday night spoil in the bar for the locals and late night workers and all of a sudden you have a feel good buzz week long.

Not much has changed in the semi-circular tiled front bar, with food offerings written on the wall, a smattering of tables to dine at, and an area that only lacks Jack Ayling and 3 way turf talk in the background, courtesy of the “Greater 3UZ”.  Think 6 o’clock swill, with neither.

The dining is room is spacious, beautifully appointed and presents higher end food and wine offer, and even in the small confines of the Lincoln, is a discreet setting.

PRICES:

Entrees:               Bar meals- $19, Restaurant $17
Mains:                  $32 - restaurant
Desserts:             $14
Wine:                    $38+, and if you like reading wine lists, get set here.  Mix of new and old world.

COMMENTS:

On a busy-ish Wednesday lunchtime, the profile of the bar was interesting.  Of 30 in there, at least 50% were women, dining/socialising. This is my light bulb moment; it automatically sends out a message that this is comfortable and inviting. Already the Lincoln wins me.

The beer is a mix of commercial (CUB/Coopers) and boutique offerings (Pikes, Rogers), which co-exist happily.  You want familiar; you want different?  I am glad I have that choice rather than some pompous git making the choice for me.

The pub runs 6 bar mains at a time, from pork and fennel snags (19), to corned beef, mash and beans (19) to a curry of the day (17).  In the bar as in the restaurant, cloth napkins, bread, butter, water are brought as a matter of course.

In the restaurant you can dine on Pig’s trotter (32)or Cider braised veal breast (35)from a list that is limited in number but not imagination.  With add-ons, you will pay in excess of $40 for a main, but if demand is any indicator, people are happy to pay that extra. 

ORDERED:

-Charcuterie plate,  $26, covering half a dozen tastes of say duck rillettes, chicken liver pate, grilled chorizo and apple. Rich, luscious, easily could feed 4.  Great start,

-Coopers Beer Batter Flathead fillet, chips and salad. $24. Massive white fleshy fillet, fresh salad, standard fries, and a wonderful main meal,

-Gnocchi, spinach, mushrooms,  parmesan - $19.  A neat trick here.  Pasta is pan fried and boiled, the potato pillows are incredibly soft, so too the soupy mushrooms and spinach. Price is incredible value.

-Steffano Lubiana (Tas) SavBlanc -$50 ($10/glass).  Just the thought of a Tasmanian SavBlanc challenged and convinced me.  One of Australia’s premier boutique producers, sublime drop.

SUMMARY:

A final piece of smart thinking from the Lincoln. You don’t want a glass of wine, but a bottle is too much.  The pub does a range of ‘pint ‘milk bottles  (think your childhood), which is a good half way house.

Well done to the Lincoln – after all the fads come and go, they still hit the bulls-eye. 

A treasure of the Melbourne pub scene.