Pub: All Nations Hotel
Where: 64 Lennox St., Richmond
Phone: 9428 1564
Date: 1 April 2010
Score: 14.9/20
Internet: www.allnationshotel.com.au

It seems that barely a month passes in epicurean Melbourne life that a chef of some standing doesn’t ply his/her skills in an inner suburban boozer and knock out tucker that causes a long lost relative to turn in their proverbial and hard nosed reviewers to go weak at the knees.

And thankfully those lucky enough to sample the delights of the aforesaid artisans drizzling, jusing, risottoing and wayguing away rejoice at their good fortune as the once sneered at pub can compete with the best for the dining leisure dollar.

It wasn’t always the case when pub cooks were busily rissoling, stewing and ky-see-minging with the finest produce a packet could provide.

At the forefront of the culinary pub revolution in the early 90’s was this pub – The All Nations in Richmond. Today after a succession of chefs, changes in trends and a fire, it still remains one of Melbourne’s best pubs in the most traditional sense.

I reviewed the ANH about 2 years ago and the pub had just re-opened after a fire almost consigned this icon to the past tense. Since then it has regained its footprint in the market and bangs out very good pub food and drink, without a TAB or pokie supporting the bottom line.

It is priced to the mark but in my opinion provides the value.

The front bar doesn’t discriminate and retains that well worn look that appealed to so many in the 90’s when if you couldn’t get a seat in the bistro you had to chance it with the local barfly at the bar.

The courtyard is now modernised and enclosed: The snug bar – a small discreet area at the back of the public bar seats around 15 people at Lilliputian sized tables, while the bistro set slightly away has all the trimmings of fire-place, napery, table service in a quaint old world setting.

An array (say 15) of small plates sets the tone – pork belly (10.50), Italian meat balls (8), salt and spicy calamari (10.50) chilli mussels (10) are part of an ever changing blackboard.

A special of Coffin Bay Oysters - $2.5/ea was the shared starter, 4 each in the 3 traditional offer of natural, mornay, and kilpatrick.  CBO’s are my favourites and these were fresh and briny. Also the worcester didn’t overpower the kilpatrick, a trap for very young players.

Pie of the day (22.50) was a beef and mushroom pie, fully plated. OK it didn’t come in the complete casing, but so unctuous and flavoursome, I overlooked this and enjoyed it with good chips and salad. (mash and veg is available).

This was extremely generous, very fairly priced and superior to near enough every similar offering, which as a rule is stewed meat in a ramekin.

The other main was a brilliant aged porterhouse (300g), pepper sauce broccoli, kipler potatoes and a rich RWJ (31). Again an exercise in simplicity, but exquisitely executed with a superior steak.

Don’t believe in the one steak fits all rule – you can pay this price and have a sinewy slab that is so wiry, you spend an arvo with a toothpick extracting it from your cavities.

Extensive wine-list – well thought out that pitches mid-$30s and with the little touches of bread and water brought to the table, and then the package is completed.

The pub is not a true gastro pub with the big name chef; it does the basics very well and honours the spirit of its early 90s forefathers in every sense.

I talk about hospitality a lot and here’s a little one per-center from the ANH. The pub will take you to and from the MCG on match days at no charge. Park your car, have a bite, hop on the bus and that’s it. (Save $8 on parking too!!).

To some it is barely a stop the clocks moment; to me however it says much about the pub and what the owners are trying to do.

It’s a beauty.

Footnote: The website has been in a state of suspended animation for 3 weeks – please bring it up to date. There’s a good story to tell.

Tony's Pub Of The Week 2010

Tony Leonard is back again this year providing readers with reviews from all the pubs he visits on the Neil Mitchell program every Friday after 11:30am. Your home for all of the reviews - 3AW.com.au/pub2010. View all the reviews by clicking on Tony's image on the right.