Pub: Cricketers Arms Hotel
Where: 69 Cruikshank St., Port Melbourne
Phone: 9646 3306
Date:  6 November 2009
Score:  14/20

It is amazing how the grapevine, through perhaps an innocuous and inaccurate remark can lead to the end of civilisation as we know it.

‘There’s trouble down there’ was the first; ‘pubs been shut forever’ was the second and then ‘they’re off to court ‘ was the third; all of the foregoing related to the ‘Hole in the Wall’, better known as The Cricketers Arms Hotel.

Surely not.

This pleasant, out of the way pub in hard to get to Cruikshank St., (that’s if you don’t know where you’re going) has been able to ride every trend in Port for the past 4 or so years under Andrew Lewis: he being part of the wonderful Lewis family that has run the equally loved Emerald Hotel in South Melbourne.

Well, what I could gather there is a difference between some parties, but is very close to being worked out. No New York style townhouses with bay glimpses for this old dear, just yet.

If you haven’t been, it is worth a visit. Hospitality in spades, very, very cosy (hole in the wall reference is easily understood), and the likelihood of meeting someone you know is very real.

Essentially it is a townhouse; one side of the corridor is the bar (no TAB, but races shown) with open fireplace and a couple of tables at the rear while the other side has a small dining room, leading to a slightly bigger one, and then to the wonderful, leafy backyard, with residents all around.

It remains firmly old school.

But the lack of space is in many ways its asset and from the first welcome, you feel comfortable from the get go.

The menu has been stripped back. Fewer entrees, mains and a smaller wine list, reflecting its Lilliputian status has worked to its benefit. There is one price across the board no matter where you dine.

I had previously believed that the prices were out of whack – one dish punching into the low $40s but not now. Straight up and down pub tucker, generous servings brought to your table.

A trio of dips ($14) came with a pile of grilled Turkish bread and were way superior to the run of the mill. Capsicum, Eggplant and a Spanish onion and pinenut did not have that ‘smoothed to an inch of their life’ texture and their robust flavours came through.

It is a rarity that either some of the dip, or piece of bread doesn’t go back to the kitchen; not here, really nice and filling.

The mains were;

- Grilled barramundi fillets, garden salad - $24. Again a generous serve of two large fillets, supported by a freshly prepared tasty salad
- Pork and Beef Sausages (2), with mash gravy and vegetables. A couple of monsters, good flavour and incredibly fair value @ $15..

Top of the board is the Rib Eye ($33) while a marinara will set you back $18.

You can expect any Lewis’ family pub to serve great beer and the Cricketer’s is no exception. Sensible pricing applies to the wines with Warramate Shiraz ($40) and Glazebrook SavBlanc ($38) amongst the more popular offerings.

The pub is popular and there is a reason for this.

Sure it is quaint and has a touch of the secretive about it due to location and size, but make no mistake, all credit for its resurrection (and it was struggling) lays squarely at the feet of its owner/operator who has been weaned on the fundamentals of hospitality.

Good pub, solid citizen. Transmission has resumed.

3AW Pub Of The Week 2009

3AW Pub Of The Week is back - and better than ever - on 3AW.com.au. Take the tour through Victoria's best and worst pubs with our expert, Tony Leonard. Click the image of Tony Leonard on the right to read all of the reviews for 2009.