Venue: Esplanade Hotel
Where: 1 A’Beckett St., Inverloch
Phone: 5674 1342
Date: 4 September 2009
Score: 13

It is strange how you make generalisations about certain areas, especially when it comes to dining.  For instance, when I undertook a trip to the Margaret River some time ago, I expected to be lavished by an array of little and well known wines from one of the great grape areas of the world.

Curiously a couple of places that I dined at seemed to have any amount of easily accessed eastern states wines rather than local heroes, much to my disappointment.

Same deals with places near water.  Whether it be through lack of produce or some arcane food legislations, a steady supply of fresh fish or crustacea is not a given as the waves crash against the coast-line.

That was my expectation of heading to the Esplanade, a wonderful, friendly pub run by the generous and hospitable Bruce “Keyhole” Clark and wife Sue.

The Esplanade is one of two pubs in this picturesque village-by-the-sea, some 140kms from Melbourne.

During summer it is a hive of activity, no doubt running up hundreds of meals daily as families tuck into their extensive menu which includes a separate breakfast list, where sourdough is the bread of choice.

The pub is still under construction to a point; upstairs will add another layer of dining that will include a balcony for a sip overlooking the (slightly obsured) ocean.

The pub is large, but not cavernously so, with a newly appointed sports bar, (TAB) and one of the better draught beers I have tried this year.  It sticks pretty much to the CUB line of products.  The whole layout of the pub has a modern edge to it, with the large dining room and separate pokies area reflecting something that you may see closer to town.

But the staff, led by Bruce and Sue has a refreshing can-do attitude and all locals are personally addressed on entering.

The menu consists of light lunch offerings, e.g., Mexican lamb wrap, filo parcel of camembert ($12), through a generous seniors offering of 2 courses for $15,  (substantial too), to the bistro offering covering all bases.

However the point of multiple fish choices, due to proximity, is thorny and although sourced from Inlet Seafoods, the 3rd party gathers much from the local Melbourne market.  

The thought of a co-op, with weather beaten hard men of the sea talking about their catch while “Brandy” by “LookingGlasss”  plays softly in the background was one of the more ridiculously romantic notions I have had!

I think food is priced to the mark but it is plentiful.  Tried was;

-  King prawn rolls - $14 for 5.   Meaty, tasty, served in rice paper wrap and neat sweet chilli dressing, they make an excellent starter.
-  Salt and Pepper calamari – another winner @$24.  Served with a salad and lemon dill mayonnaise, they arrive hot and seasoned beautifully
-  Spaghetti marinara - $32.  Gee, priced to the mark for mine, and while not a bad dish, the less is more principle would have been a better fit,
-  Pork belly, basil pesto, red cabbage - $28.  Dish that really missed the mark, in spite of the generous plating.  Suspect it had been re-heated and as such lost its crackle and lusciousness.  No

The outstanding value of Deen Vat series from DeBortolli was the wine of the month and at $20 (vat 2 SavBlanc) was excellent and generous shopping.

So the tale of the tape was 2 good meals, one not so bad but pricey, and one missed.  Some slight tinkering, to my mind, will see this ramped up to a higher level and be another pub with pokies, that combines all elements beautifully.

But if I had an award for the most hospitable of hosts for 2009, Team Clark would be hard to beat; good folks having a good offer and running a good pub.

3AW Pub Of The Week 2009

3AW Pub Of The Week is back - and better than ever - on 3AW.com.au. Take the tour through Victoria's best and worst pubs with our expert, Tony Leonard. Click on the image on the right to be taken to the home page for Pub Of The Week.