Pub: Flying Duck Hotel
Where: 67 Bendigo St., Prahran
Phone: 9510 1173
Date: 19 June 2009
Score: 14

Some pubs change, both in appearance and theme, as suburbs go through periods of gentrification.

Take Fitzroy, where for sure you can find some traditional haunts, but overwhelming they dig the new breed and pitch their offer accordingly. Builders Arms is a stunning example of adapting to the modern, Griifs “wine” pub is another.

Kensington, with Hardiman’s as its only pub, threw away the cyclone wire fencing around the windows to welcome the urban professional into its home. Its nearby neighbour, North Melbourne took a similar modern route.

However, for all of its cachet and desirability, Prahran has somehow bucked the trend and stays, at least to my eye, firmly entrenched in the past.  Sure the offer is a tad sharper than most e.g. Hotels Max, Prahran, College Lawn etc., but the pubs still hold to the past.

The Flying Duck is a constant of the area and its “world weary” external appearance hasn’t changed much, if at all, in the previous 5 years since last review.

In the quaint public service tradition of finding a “quiet-little-drinking-hole-where-no-one-can-find-you”, the Flying Duck is as secluded as any pub; Bring your Tom-Tom just in case.

Inside it is a mix of front bar and dining room, with fireplaces and outback, the stunning atrium/beer garden is its #1 feature: in the best 3 of its type in Melbourne.

The basics of good draught beer (Coopers and Stella on tap) and hospitality are there, so there is no “eliteness” that you may be expecting given its location.

Food is priced mid-high $20s and if I have a criticism it is one that applies to a stack of pubs; too much on the plate. Now I know you are probably thinking I have gone barking mad with that statement, but sometimes with a richness of highly worked food that the Duck does, it gets too overwhelming.

Reduce the plate and cost by 10% and a happy medium is achieved.

For instance, I had Pork Belly ($25) fully plated with vegetables and a red wine jus. Great crackle, rich, unctuous, but a bit less would have achieved the same result.

Eye fillet medallions, potato stack and broccolini ($28.50) is similarly viewed. Cooked medium rare, had a great taste, great red wine reduction but again too much on the plate.

There is a range of traditional pub favourites, but these are priced high teens (steak sandwich/parma etc.,) so while all bases are covered, better value exists elsewhere on the menu.

A tick from me was sensible approach to wine. Quality drops, available per glass, around the $6.5-9 mark, meaning that good bottle can be purchased for mid $20s, which frustratingly is disappearing in pubs.
Slightly over that mark ($32.90) was the Bobby Burns Shiraz from Rutherglen. It is a fine drop; that has been established over the years. The fact that the pub is prepared to put a fair mark on a quality bottle is to be recognised and applauded.

But it is the beer garden that takes pride of place, protected by the palm trees on one side, and the Prahran high rises on the other. It is a stunning place to burn a couple of hours in contemplation or revelry.

There are new owners and the temptation would be to put your own stamp on the “Duck” and take into a new direction.

No need to; it chugs along very nicely thank you.

3AW Pub Of The Week 2009

3AW Pub Of The Week is back - and better than ever - on 3AW.com.au. Take the tour through Victoria's best and worst pubs with our expert, Tony Leonard. Click the image to find all the reviews for 2009.