Pub:  Grand Hotel
Where:  333 Burnley St., Richmond
Phone:  9429 2530
Date:   30 October 2009
Score:   16/20

The Grand Hotel is wonderful.

From every award that it has garnered over their “new” journey to every glowing and gushing review it receives is thoroughly deserved; mine, today, is no different.

I don’t deviate from the basics that I look for in a pub and that is great draught beer, clean environment, welcoming staff and food that represents real value. In short, the most personal of questions “do I want to be here”?

Yes, is your instantaneous reaction.

Sure there are hotels whose food is so good that it rivals any restaurant in town. But to truly wear the pubs badge of honour, they must have more than that; they should be places of comfort and community and this is where the Grand completes the hospitality equation.

Situated in the increasingly blocked artery known as Burnley St., the pub’s exterior is plain but once inside, the deceptively large front bar (situated towards the rear), complete with benches and booths allows you to spread out comfortably.

Beer is excellent: a clean finish that confirms lines are done regularly and the glasses are properly treated.  Tick.

An “L” shaped courtyard/beer garden gives another dimension to the pub and so neatly set out, it invites you to take your drink there.  Soon you become oblivious to the traffic choking the street outside.

You will eat brilliantly in the front bar if you choose, mostly under $20.  Given prices in most basic standard pub dining rooms hover around this rate, I know where the better value exists.

Aah, but the dining room is the oasis of the pub.  

Deep, dark colours, tables set out with plenty of space, top notch bread and chilled water brought without asking and knowledgeable front of house, your instincts tell you that whatever the cost, this is will be enjoyable.

The food is superior Italian; pub, restaurant, whatever you care to measure against. The Grand does not shrink by comparison.

So inviting was the pasta, my guest tried the house made gnocchi with napoli and basil ($18.50). The alternative sauce is brown butter and sage.  Soft and delicate flavours, it is a dish often assassinated in less professional hands.  Not here.

One of the signature dishes is the Vincisgrassi (18.5/25/5).  Thin sheets of lasagne (again made at The Grand), the twist being the filling comprises offal and meats, rather than béchamel/tomato.  The entree size is sufficient to confirm that this ranks as one of Melbourne’s best pasta dishes.

Two other meals were tried.  An entree size of grilled king prawns wrapped in pancetta ($21) with lentils (not bad) and Fish of the Day,  a glorious slab of crispy skinned Kingfish ($32), salsa verde with a natty fry up of anchovies and capers and a lovely splodge of olive oil over the fish

This is how pubs should present fish; day in day out. Firm, blindingly white flesh, cooked expertly.  A great, luscious meal.

So in for a penny etc., a dessert was shared. Tiramisu ($12) and not surprisingly, it excelled.

The wine list is thoughtfully set out; again a reflection of the pub’s direction. Mt. Langi Ghiran Cliff Edge Shiraz ($46) was very fair shopping.

Now to the tale of the tape - $170 for two, all inclusive in the dining room.  In its rawest extraction, (and still holding true to the maxim of ‘it’s only a pub’), you can think of this on the high  side, although increasingly fair to moderate pub dining, all-in, will set you back at least $100.

Set aside any price prejudices – this is real value.

It is easy join in the chorus of approval here, but having returned for the first time in ages, The Grand really is an absolute pub treasure of Melbourne.

3AW Pub Of The Week 2009

3AW Pub Of The Week is back - and better than ever - on 3AW.com.au. Take the tour through Victoria's best and worst pubs with our expert, Tony Leonard. Click the image of Tony Leonard on the right to read all of the reviews for 2009.