Pub:  Great Northern Hotel
Where:  644 Rathdowne Street, North Carlton
Phone:  9380 9569
Score:  13.5/20
Review:  30 January 2009

The top end of Rathdowne Street is one of the prettiest areas of Melbourne; a magnificent, majestic row of trees provide ample shade and cool on the hottest of days. But not this day, 29/01/09, when the mercury rose to 42.5 degrees and beyond, and as Melbourne came to a standstill, they too were mere bystanders.

The GNH, on the corner of Rathdowne and Pigdon, looks fabulous old world from the outside and on entering, must have been the coolest (literally) place in the state with an air-con system working beautifully, belying the oppression outside. It was the best in 14 years that I had experienced – not that too many awards are handed out for this facet of pub life.

But it was a good and comforting start to the day and things got better with a cold frothy seven ounce glass.  And that’s the thing about pubs; the first 15 seconds when you ask yourself, do I want to be here, and  an instinctive yes came the inner reply.

Thirst slaked, time to consider the dining.

The pub, even with its prestigious address refuses modernisation, and still clings to a 70s pub look of wooded panels, low lighting, and traditional crimson-ish carpets.  In days past, this was the meeting place for those whose exploits are being vividly retold on the 9 network.

I think the pub is at its zenith at the moment, simply as the food has been ramped up from the parma/steak sanga/student mentality (still available though) to present a well priced, interesting and diverse menu.

Plenty to choose from, order at the bar and meals brought to the table. An entrée of bread, olive oil and dukkah ($6) started us off - it was OK - and then a matter of going through the many pages which detailed the varied offerings.

Prices range from $17, for a main of calamari, rocket, bean shoots, chili jam with a orange juice dressing –looked a treat, up to $32 for a 350g rib-eye, butter beans, sweet potato mash, prosciutto.

The mains tried were;
•    Fettucine of smoked chicken, sun dried tomatoes, spinach and pine nuts, in a garlic olive oil ($17) was superior to the run of the mill pub pastas,
•    Lamb souvlaki, tzatziki, etc - $18 - massive amount of food - too much in fact giving further weight to the 'less is more theory', but gets a pass
•    Scallops, seared with bacon, beans, spinach,  avocado, beans with croutons - $19.  I liked the dish but two points; thought that the avocado was unnecessary and two if searing, all scallops should be of a consistent texture and colour (a couple were slightly overdone) but a good pub dish nonetheless.

The wine list was a mix of familiar - Oyster Bay at $32 so OK by me - and the different, with a very crisp Sav Blanc from NZ,  “Stratum” stopping the clock at $29. From my POV, good shopping.

The pleasant conditions made it hard to leave and once back into the street the heat struck mercilessly. On the way home I thought that this would be the worst of the summer; tragically far worse hit 2 weeks later.

And as for the GNH, it gets pub of the week of to a good start for 2009, with its beer garden a new feature that gives it an even better presence. Day or night, the place works, with its dining room near enough to full on the day I sampled.

And those who fondly recall this in seedier days of the 70’s and 80’s, pork underbelly was available.

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