Pub: Kingston Hotel
Where: 55 Highett St., Richmond
Phone: 9428 5841
Date: 27 February 2009
Score: 14.5/20

For those who fastidiously categorise pubs (or restaurants) for that matter, today's POTW is one that is genuinely hard to place in any box, yet it ticks most of them.

It is not gastro, in the sense of the Court House (Nth Melb), Montague (Sth Melb), Royal Mail (Dunkeld), Royal George (Kyneton), Farmers Arms (Daylesford) , yet sets a standard of service and inventiveness of menu that wouldn’t be out of place.

Nor is it inner-urban cool, such as the Terminus (Abbotsford), Napier or Builders Arms (Fitzroy), yet the mix of clientele makes all welcome.

In a quiet street in the shadows of West Richmond station, it seems more upmarket than the average pub of the area, but it is isn’t.

So enough of the Billy Crystal, and let me wax lyrical about the Kingston, a pub for all seasons, and as aesthetically pleasant as any Melbourne. 

The quaint facade promises much and indeed you are shocked at how big the pub is once the 3 levels are looked at. (I am counting the split level as 2, beer garden and atrium restaurant as the lower).

The Kingston achieves that worn-in, user friendly look that most pubs crave, while maintaining a freshness of service and interesting menu that demands a further visit.

Fireplace in the bar, large wooden tables for comfortable bench (front bar) dining, to the beautiful atrium restaurant at ground level.

It is straight out of the pages of Home Beautiful  (or whatever glossy specialises in this sort of thing!!), but moreover you are in  a pub.  Beer was fine, $3.20/glass is certainly at the higher end.

Recommendation #1 for 2009: Share the antipasto starter plate - $15/27.  We chose entree and were presented with cured meats, olives, dips, cheeses that were not cobbled together from a quick whip around from aisle 5 at your local IGA. 

This plate was superior to any tried in a pub over the journey with the right quantities covering the rectangular plate.

Since the bar was the preferred to dine, these meals took the fancy;

- Fish and chips - $18 – Two hot, fleshy white tubes of flake, excellent hand-made (it's the in-thing apparently) chips that remained hot ‘till the last one, with a green salad.  You beauty

- Char- Grilled Porterhouse, 300g, chips, and a rocket and parmesan salad - $23.  Again faultless according to the company and very fairly priced.

I read recently a review that bemoaned lack of imagination on a pub menu, citing the usual steak, fish/chips again to be found. Done well as they were at The Kingston, and they are a joy and treasure.

I ramped up the wine and punted beyond the $40 mark, but it was worth it. The Wild Duck estate shiraz/malbec ($42) came as a recommendation from the bar, with a taste before you bought. Tick to that and to the squirt – it was delightful.

OK, all good but a small grumble. I found the front bar service too officious. Too much 'yes sir', 'no madam', which doesn't embrace the informality of the area that you are in. We are not upstairs at Florentino. (mind you other grumbles are being called squire, or mate, by those working in hospitality).

Also the 3% surcharge on credit cards.  Again nothing to die in a ditch over, but a hidden nasty for mine, which didn't show up as a charge on the blackboard menu.

These are small things and inconsequential to the overall day; The Kingston has  the right mix of hospitality delivered in one of Melbourne's better pub settings.