Pub: Leincester Arms Hotel
Where: 66 Gold St., Collingwood
Phone: 9417 5720
Date: 17 April 2009
Score: 15/20

The problem with making a big statement, on air, is that if you cannot be 100% certain of the facts you present, the ever vigilant listener is always on hand to correct your assertion.

Publicly. Humiliating. Defeated.

I confidently stated that today’s pub, the wonderful, consistent and generous Leinceter Arms, was the only single storey pub in Melbourne. Oh boy, did Mitchell delight in asking the listeners if this was correct (it wasn’t). The Shamrock, Preston, Dorset Gardens, Croydon etc., were a couple of the instantaneous nominations.

What I meant to say ... nah I was wrong. In inner suburban Melbourne, maybe, but nonetheless, if you haven’t been to the LA, go; it is a beauty.

Simply it is straight out of the hospitality 101 handbook and with a down to earth, cosy front bar, (complete with a portrait of Eddie by Chopper), quiet conference/special dining room), atrium with exposed fireplace and beer garden, it doesn’t to copy trends but stick to what it knows and delivers to its customers.

All successfully executed without a TAB or pokies and run by husband and wife with loyal chef Frank (there for past 7 years) banging out tremendous pub grub.

(What the pub and I found curious was it being awarded best pub in the City of Yarra by the local paper for the past 6 years, yet never reviewed by them!!).

The draught beer is clean and fresh; they serve it in 7oz/200ml glasses. Other pubs take note – this is a popular and socially responsible vessel to contain beer. Part of any licence to any pub should be the ability of a customer to get a drink in a standard, but smaller glass if they ask,

The menu is extensive and very fairly priced and as a result has attracted a loyal following way beyond its inner urban boundaries. You want a value-packed pub night out?? Here it is; in spades

Bread and water brought to the table – Yes. And if you want more to mop up the juices, then just ask and it arrives without a hint Oliver Twist.

Mushroom cardinal ($19), a monstrous Portobello, topped with prawns/shrimps, hollandaise and rice reflected the pub’s spirit. Plentiful, tasty, easy to eat, and it is no surprise that saw this pub compete successfully last year for the title of best mushroom meal against the likes of the Crown casino.

Pub favourite is the mussel and crab hot pot ($19). Arriving with paper bibs, this massive mix of aforesaid, with pippis, in a spankingly good broth of tomato, chilli and mix feeds 2 easily, and 4 could dine on this brilliantly at $5/head.

Good pub food – I shudder to think how large the Seafood Platter ($27/hd) is if the meals tried are an indication.

Don’t get me wrong – I steadfastly hold to my rule of never assuming the bigger the meal, better the value, but here is an exception.

A Mount Barker (WA) Sav/Blanc, 3 Drops, was offered as the wine at $30. Increasingly I am looking at the mark-up (given that the overwhelming majority of wines offered in pubs are fine) and at $30 falls squarely in the fair bracket.

Cheese platter to finish ($12) and a lovely day had at a great owner/operator hotel.

I know this pub won’t appear in any fine dining guides as a “gastro” pub, e.g., the Montague, or Grand will but that doesn’t matter. It trades successfully because it understands what the average patron wants summarised in three words; Comfort, Hospitality, Value.

And as for the one storey hotel – well I let’s just say there isn’t one in Melbourne that looks like the Leincester Arms. Go and you will see what I mean.