Pub: Metropolitan Hotel

Where: 36-42 Courtney St., North Melbourne
Phone: 9328 4222
Date: 2 July 2010
Score: 15/20
Internet: www.metrohotel.com.au

In 2005, this was the DeBortoli pub of the year and it was a beauty. Indeed still is.

The fact that it is such a beautiful building, part of the Melbourne Meat Market Arts Precinct adds to its lustre. The pub will showcase the London play 'Etiquette' on 13-15 August – a 30 minute, 2 person performance, and the patrons, in an unobtrusive manner are part of the performance with the aid of headsets.

Now this is someway removed from screaming at the Sky when the Red at Maitland gets stood on its ear at the Thursday night yappers, but conversely, this is the beauty of Melbourne pubs.

We are lavished with options here, and the Metropolitan, as one of the (consistent) big 10 of Melbourne (IMHO), strives to remain at the cutting edge of pub hospitality.

But don’t be mislead; this is still very much a traditional, walk in from the street, head to the bar and have a quiet one if you desire.

The front bar, lead-light windows, polished floorboards, leather couch with an array of glossy mags (No Ralph/FHM) on the coffee table continues the tradition set by previous owners.  By my guess, there is sufficient dining at tables and benches for 20 or so.The basic of any pub is not forgotten – Draught Beer. Cold, properly treated 7oz glasses, lace attaching to the sides as it easily slides down. Hot/Cold weather, this is the way that you want it poured, served and tasting.

The decision was taken to eat in the bar, where the neat blackboards entice you to try everything.  Prices are, in the main, in the low $20s and the quality is unquestioned.

Char grilled house made chorizo, or  HM Black Pudding or HM Meat Balls in a tomato sauce and aged parmesan is a tenner if you fancy a share plate to kick off.

Tried was;

 - Pie of the day at $21.  Beef in red wine, mushroom and carrot came with crisp al dente green beans and a creamy mash. Be assured, their mash runs second to no one in Melbourne.  This was a filling, rich, hearty gorgeous meal and while the Pie wasn’t fully encased in pastry, it didn’t matter. A beauty.

 - Green Pea risotto ($25) with chevre (cheese from goats milk).  Now I know rule #1 of pub dining is ‘never have the pub risotto’, but in expert hands like this, it was all things that the Arborio should be.  Bet with safety when having their risotto. On first glance you think there should be more; after eating you are satisfied

 - Mayford tempranillo (Porepunkah) at $59/bottle.  Ok,  $12/glass is high, no argument, when talking pub prices, but this was a recommendation and was excellent.

We have eaten brilliantly in the bar, finishing with an outstanding cheese platter for 2 - $18.

Now comes a leap of faith. If you live by the axiom that you pay for what you get, then this bill was on the money.

However, if you subscribe to a belief that these prices are high for a pub, then the bistro goes even higher, with $42 being asked for an eye fillet. (black angus, 120 day aged and fully plated). The full table service is there, the room is beautiful and the quality remains.  Head to the website – www.metro.com.au and browse the menu.

The pub has a 2/3course $30/35 option as part of a lunch deal.  This is great shopping.

My concern was that after a successful run under Craig McVean, that the pub may slip back a notch.  

Thankfully this wasn’t the case and to my eye it is steady as she goes and still, quite firmly, in my top 10.

Tony's Pub Of The Week 2010

Tony Leonard is back again this year providing readers with reviews from all the pubs he visits on the Neil Mitchell program every Friday after 11:30am. Your home for all of the reviews - 3AW.com.au/pub2010. More here.