Pub: Nash Hotel
Where: 344 Victoria St., Richmond
Phone: 9428 3418
Date: 19 March 2010
Score: 13.9/20
Internet: www.thenashhotel.com.au

Another hot, humid, sticky day in Melbourne; the Bureau informs us that we are within 100 consecutive days of temperatures in excess of 20oC. For sure it is mid march and the last embers of summer are expected, but surely there’s a break in the weather, especially at nights, soon.

Maybe if you are travelling on a crowded train to your office you want the change immediately: not so if you are a publican, with one of the quaintest beer gardens in Melbourne and relishing the conditions to bring the numbers in.

And this pub is thriving in the tropical heat.

The Nash, formerly The National is one of those last of the Mohicans owner/operator pubs, that, (and I need Tim Fletcher’s realtor smarts here), I think adds so much value to those nearby houses, whose inhabitants use their local as an extension of their living room.

Simply it is a beauty. Its no frills, bit ragged around the edges front bar, discreet 40 seat bistro banging well priced pub grub in comfortable surroundings, wins you instantly.

Run by Ross Kennett, (yes son of Jeff), the beer is first class, clean on the palate and served in 7oz/200ml glasses. Why a lot of pubs refuse to allow this choice of receptacle beggars belief: surely it can’t be that difficult.

The decor is typical inner suburban pub so you know what to expect. FoxSports for the footy, music stations as the background (a one hour special on Lady Gaga was most enjoyable, if not a little intrusive given the volume) and a pin ball machine means its old school Richmond hospitality 101.

There is a pick of the board Steak Tuesday @ ($12), parma night, with the choice of 10 toppings known as Parmageddon (love it) discounted on Thursdays, but the fact that 6 or 7 specials are offered on the blackboard to supplement the laminated menu means, in the simples of terms, that there is something for everyone.

Mains range in the $17-30 bracket. At the lower end, a generous serve of the Pub Fish and Chips ( 2 large fillets of Blue Grenadier), chips, salad and housemade tartare was a good offer, served hot and the batter was crisp on the fish. At $17, this is the right mark for a meal like this.

For $30, 500g T-Bone, Kipler potatoes, vegetables and a choice of sauces (the mushroom looked and tasted fabulous) was the acme of what pub tucker is about; full plate, very tasty and priced to what you think is a fair deal for a dish of this quality.

Lamb Shanks, mash, broccoli, brussel sprouts, beans and garlic bread $22 (if that dish doesn’t make you regular nothing will) sets you back $22, while a risotto comprising Italian sausage, olives, fetta, and chilli is fairly priced at $18.

I suspect that the Nash would certainly pull off a great risotto, this dish being the trickiest and least successfully done of all pub meals.
Wine prices are marked in a $25-35 bracket, and a bargain in my opinion is the O’Leary Walker Riesling at $28/bottle. By any measure in a retail sense, that is excellent shopping. Another popular drop Jim Barry Cover Drive CabSav is $31, again a sensible price.

Music filled the backyard as we dined, but again, played at a volume that intruded. Maybe I am alone on this, but I’d rather no music at all (especially at lunchtime) where the primary objective=s are to eat and socialise.

To be fair it was turned down on request.

 I like The Nash. Unashamedly I have a bias towards inner suburban, owner/operator pubs as long as the offer is generous, personal and welcoming.

This pubs ticks all of the abovementioned boxes.

Tony's Pub Of The Week 2010

Tony Leonard is back again this year providing readers with reviews from all the pubs he visits on the Neil Mitchell program every Friday after 11:30am. Your home for all of the reviews - 3AW.com.au/pub2010. View all the reviews by clicking on Tony's image on the right.