Pub:                 Portland Hotel  (James Squire Brewhouse)

Where:             Cnr.  Russell and Little Collins St., Melbourne

Phone:             9810 0064

Date:               5  November 2010

Score:             13.8/20
internet:           www.portlandhotel.com.au

How times flies.  In early 2012, Melbourne will celebrate (I know it’s the wrong word in this context) the 20^th anniversary of table top dancing, or to put it in gentler terms, Gentlemen’s clubs.

It is a million to one that Lord Mayor Robert Doyle will hold a civic reception at the Town Hall, hoist a couple of fireman’s poles from Eastern Hill and crank up the CD player with Donna Summer blaring in the background and congratulate those involved for two decades of bump and grind.

Sante Fe Gold in Russell St., was Melbourne’s first (and I think Australia’s) to head down this lucrative path. Any night, stacks of (predominately) blokes were happy to pay over the odds for a stubby while popping notes into scantily clad lasses as they gyrated around a pole. To me, it confirms that humans are easily entertained.

The hysteria created was beyond belief; the end of civilisation as we knew it, as Bar 20, Spearmint Rhino and other sprang up. Now, it’s not a big deal.

SFG is long gone, and the venue has returned to its roots in the form of pub/microbrewery and it is a beauty for 2 reasons;

• Venues operating as a traditional hotel in the CBD are rare and,
  
  
• The Portland Hotel makes a big effort to put together an engaging hospitality package with the emphasis on the beer as much as any other part of the pub.

I know it has been going for a long time as a microbrewery but it is a first visit for me.  No TAB/Pokies, but Foxsports going quietly in the background.

On entering from Russell St (rather than Lt. Collins) you climb a couple of steps and are at the bar.  It is set over a deceptively wide area; the brewery to the right, seating to the left and it snakes through to the bistro (nicely set out) leading onto another area with some pool tables.  For a non-descript Wednesday lunch, the Portland had a buzz.

A range of James Squire beers are displayed, 4 of which were brewed on premise.  There is a golden ale, red ale, India pale, stout, pilsener and the list goes on.  Because they are craft beers, expect to pay around $2 more for a pot/pint. I tried the Portland Pale and it was delicious, tangy and fruity.

If you want to have crack  at more of the range, there is a beer “ paddle”, with 6 holes to allow 6 small glasses (about 100ml ea) and therefore you get a little taster. 

What I liked was the enthusiasm of the staff to explain what you were drinking, how it should taste, and what has gone into making the beers.

I enjoyed the food that came from the galley, a point of difference being emu, crocodile, wild boar, kangaroo and rabbit being on the menu.

Up more for a snack, I shared a tasting plate ($35) which allowed for 2 entrees and a couple of dips with bread and olives. 

The prawn and crocodile skewers, mango chutney (norm $15.9 for 3) were chosen and the two tastes complemented each other, the bbq prawns especially having a good crunch. 

Rabbit pasties (with a bush tomato relish – norm $15.9e) packed a gamey flavour with my regret being there weren’t enough of them. Good eating.  Dips (beetroot and tzatziki) made on the premises were fine.

If you want a whole Portland Plate ($40), you can choose from a 700g Hopkins river rump, whole spiced bbq chicken or a  massive parma with all the trimmings.  Good luck knocking any of them over solo.

While not eating in the dining room, I noted the wine prices.  Maybe it is a tactic to drink the beer, but the prices for easily obtained commercially branded wine was simply too high.  Gob-smacked is the only word to use for Shaw and Smith SavB at $52/bottle, freely available at the moment in the low $20s from the chains.

But the Portland is more about the beer and food and being run as a pub, with comedy and music forming part of the total package.  I enjoyed it.

Just don’t expect to hear ‘Bad Girls’ over the in-house PA.

Review: Young and Jacksons

"It is comfortable and comforting, old world, iconic, but above all, it is one of Melbourne’s most identifiable landmarks."