Pub:  Prince Albert Hotel
Where:     149 Douglas Pde., Williamstown  
Phone:  9397 5117
Date:   13 November 2009
Score:   15/20

Here’s how the story goes.

Couple marry and want to get into hospitality.  He can cook; she is a whip smart, engaging girl who would make a great front of house.

Couple sees pub; old, run-down for sure in a most attractive suburb, but way off the main hive of activity.  What the heck, lets live this dream large together; financial, professional and personal and see how it goes.

Ok, that’s the fairy tale with this timeless story going one of two ways.  Normally it is complete disillusionment, with the partners only clapping eyes on each other in the Family Court.  Life’s pages are littered with dreams of running a pub, only for it to fall miserably.

Occasionally though, it works the other way, and the butt ugly hotel is transformed by a young energetic couple and soon enough its praises are sung on the back of hard yards, personal detail and a touch of flair.  No TAB, no pokies.

This is the story of the Prince Albert Hotel, the family named dining room Bettanays and giving the locals what they want and being rewarded.

When the PA first came to notice, the reviews were very good and the rush was on to discover why it had been seen in such a favourable light.  Twelve months on when I headed there, I see why there was such a fuss, and why I am happy to highly endorse previous remarks.

In spite of its gross exterior, inside is pure old (once) working class Williamstown without overdoing the kitsch.  Douglas parade is stuck right in the middle of a residential area, but that works for the pub; it doesn’t have to compete with those on the main drag overlooking the bay.

Beer is excellent for starters and without screaming happy hour, there is a spoil for the locals (and others) in the late afternoon.  Looking at the punters, it is easy to see why they have re-adopted this pub.

The food is done from scratch in the kitchen and there is one of the best value meals of 2009 on the menu. The wine list too, has a point of difference and there is plenty of room in 2 large dining rooms to spread.

Pizza has become the most added item to pub menus in 2009. Don’t think I’ve seen confit duck, blood orange and macadamia with an orange vincotto (22) on any pizza.  If you want pork belly on pizza, Bettanays is your place.

I like the idea of making children welcome.  Butchers paper, crayons etc on the table while they enjoy a meal, mercifully without a trace of nuggets. It also means you enjoy yours.

Tried was;

-  Char sui pork ribs, potato salad, cranberry jelly (entree 6 pieces $17).  For everyone who has tried to get ribs right at home, forget it, have theirs!

-  300g King Island Porterhouse for $22, homemade béarnaise and salad.  One of the buys of the year in a pub, cooked perfectly, priced remarkably,

-  Thai Beef salad ($19) with a nim yam dressing. The hot sweet sour cool dressing supported the beef and salad to a T.  So many ingredients, without one overpowering the other.

Clarry’s Kalleske red, a blend of Grenache, Shiraz and Mataro, was soft on the palate and worked well with meals.  At $36/bottle, it was priced to the mark, but well worth it.

Yes, there’s a parma and pot night (Mondays $15), another night when the drinks are a bit cheaper and then the big announcement is the arrival of a new pizza oven; no doubt the scientists in the kitchen are looking forward to that.

But the Prince Albert works because the drive to succeed in the cutthroat world of hospitality, plus putting their own in, means it is sink (as many have) or swim. They are going beautifully.   Simply, they get it.

Book a table, enjoy the Pub, enjoy a slice of Williamstown and see why so many want this pub, The Prince Albert, aka Bettanays to work.

3AW Pub Of The Week 2009

3AW Pub Of The Week is back - and better than ever - on 3AW.com.au. Take the tour through Victoria's best and worst pubs with our expert, Tony Leonard. Click the image on the right to read all of the reviews for 2009.