Pub: Pugg Mahones
Where: 171-175 Elgin St., Carlton
Phone: 9347 0202
Date: 13 March 2009
Score: 12.5/20

Whether true or not, a long held view of Australians is that we need little or no excuse to have a 'knees up'. If it's grand final day, you get the spit going at 8am and open the top off a can by 9, even if your side has no part to play in the big game.

Melbourne Cup? It extends now to a holiday before the race is run!! Explain that to other members of the working world!!

And then there are other celebrations that have no genesis in our parched sunburnt land. For example, if it is 4th July, we feel compelled to find a watering hole doing Dogs and Bud, then salute all matter red, white and blue, while Journey or REO Speedwagon is blaring in the background.

Which leads me to17th March; Paddy's day.

In the recent past, this had become an unofficial half-holiday and any scent of a jig or reel brought the masses from miles around. I may be off the mark, but things have tempered somewhat and it doesn’t seem such a big deal anymore.

Same can be said of the Irish invasion where pubs are concerned. While many saw this as the saviour of the small venue 20 years ago, now it is themed by a few true believers – PJ OBriens, Bridie O'Reilly's and perhaps the most successful franchise, Pugg Mahone’s.

My choice was the Elgin St., Carlton location – previously known as Stewarts – from the point, (with 17/3 approaching), whether the Irish still have the point of difference that was so dynamic 2 decades ago.

The pub, with its exquisite fit-out resembles (I assume) a typical Irish pub, to be found in a typically Irish town or village. Heaving wooded, corners and quiet space aplenty and a Map of Ireland on the ceiling, there is the usual bric-a-brac dotting the landscape.

Yes it comfortable, and the draught beer (local) was very good.

But if you are going down a themed path, surely it must be that theme around the clock and the Thursday I went in, I could have been any pub, basically anywhere. (Having The Pogues or U2 on high rotation doesn't count as the anticipated diddly-diddly).

And this led through to the food. Straight up and down, no frills, OK pub food, fairly priced that was listed on an A4 sheet of paper. Thankfully we were spared the twee on the menu, e.g., Belfast Bangers, Fanny's Fish and Chips etc., and boring etc.

The pie of the day was $15 and the offering was Beef and Guinness.

Like so many other pubs (and it is an irritiation) it was a piece of puff on top of a beef and Guinness stew in a ramekin, not a pastry enclosed pie. That said, it had a nice flavour, chips and salad provided (or mash/veg) and service came with a lovely Scottish (yes) smile.

Lamb Shanks, mash etc set you back $15, Spaghetti and veal meatballs were $17. Both standard offerings, but priced nicely so no grumbles.

Wine prices, I thought were at the top end. Pepperjack was $39 – the top price encountered this year. The easily available Cartwheel Cab/Merlot was chosen at $33, from what was an uninspired wine list.

In many respects, the Melbourne pub scene should thank those far-sighted ones who recognised that invigoration came from overseas. Truly, our pubs were near enough to dead 20 years ago.

But the challenge was taken up and now in the inner suburbs, local corner pubs are gold and, without any faux influences, deliver what they should be about: a place of comfort and enjoyment.

Pugg Mahones is that also, but after all of this time, I still don't get it.