Venue: Railway Club Hotel
Where: 107 Raglan St., Port Melbourne
Phone: 9645 1661
Date: 30 July 2009
Score: 14.5

Trawl through the recesses of your mind to consider this; which dish has made a pub/bar/restaurant/shop famous in Melbourne?

I’ll start with the obvious – Peking Duck at the Flower Drum, (or the steamed black bean oysters), but what about the Crumbed Veal Cutlet at Becco, Bomb Alaska at Donovan’s, Blue Dumplings at Isthmus of Kra?

Consider today’s pub – The Railway club in Port Melbourne, whose food is pulled off with breathtaking simplicity and is famous for its chips.

Yep the humble spud, pratie (I think that’s how it was spelt), is the ‘My Way’ while the steaks are the New York, New York.

The combination is blindingly superb, ordered in abundance, devoured accordingly, in such a seamless fashion, I remain stunned that no operator has sought to replicate what the legendary pub has achieved.

For those who have had a beer and steak at Brisbane’s famous Breakfast Creek you know the drill; walk over to the fridge choose from the variety on display, sit back and have it delivered while a lovely 7oz ($3 in bar) beer is consumed.

Turn a page, look at the extensive wine list, choose (overwhelmingly its red) and be comfortable in a lounge that is deceptively spacious, wonderful “pub” old world, and pass away an hour or two.

In the restaurant, your application of value for money kicks. Depending on size, either 300 or 400g, you will pay mid-high $30’s for a porterhouse or rump, mid $40s for a rib--eye (600g) and nudge $50 for a surf and turf.

The quality of the beef (cape grim, Tasmania) is unquestioned. More traditional offering such as lambs fry, rissoles, kranskys and mash, veal parmagiana will start in the teens and head towards $30.

You do get the fabulous chunky chips, table service, napery, cutlery so it is the full whack.

Ok, if that is a bit pricey for you, then the bar is a great second (cheaper) option and the comfort levels are still there. The TAB operates quietly, and in essence is the overflow from the restaurant. I took block there.

First ordered from the restaurant menu was the cevapcici. 4 skinless spicy sausages arrived, accompanied with a neat mix of diced olive and onion. Moist, juicy, tasty, worth every bit of the $9.50.

Kranskys (2), mash, onion and red wine gravy was $15. Inside it was low $20’s and although I got up to get it, no great hardship was endured. Wonderful bar meal.

Rump or Scotch in the bar were $22, chips and salad as part of the deal and the innate comfort levels achieved.

Ok, I have had the bargain, but now it is time to order a wine to accompany the kranskys and porterhouse with chips ($10 in bar –a steal).

Right o, the value for money equation confronts me again. To my eye, the prices, (we are in a pub) are priced to the mark and as I have said in a previous review, the quality is not in question as most brands are treid and true; it is the value.

Ordered was a 2007 d’Arenberg “Footbolt” Shiraz. Cost $39. Hmmm. The wine was wonderful, but I thought steep at that price. And that is across the board, with a Cape Mentelle Sem/Sav at $46. I know the surroundings are great, I know there is table service, but priced to the mark. The ubiquitous Pepperjack was $41.

It is a really good pub that will be full today, tomorrow and moist nights. You will relax there and if going for the first time, you will soon recognise why it has been such a fixture for a considerable time.

I have spoken at length about pubs being places of comfort. The Railway Club Hotel wrote the book on that.

Go.

3AW Pub Of The Week 2009

3AW Pub Of The Week is back - and better than ever - on 3AW.com.au. Take the tour through Victoria's best and worst pubs with our expert, Tony Leonard. Click the image on the right to read all of the reviews for 2009.