Pub:          Richmond Seafood Tavern   
Where:     14 Elizabeth St., Richmond
Phone:        9419 8724
Date:         19 November 2010
Score:         14.7/20
internet:    www.richseatav.com.au

The weather turns uncomfortably hot; the sudden blast catches us all off guard.  You crave a pub, but want something lighter and your local’s salt and pepper squid or some variation of a Caesar just doesn’t cut it.

If I was to have the smallest criticism of Melbourne pub life, (as far as food goes), it is that we do three of the four seasons brilliantly, but summer confuses in that the menus don’t do “light” as well as they do “heavy”.

By that I mean the glorious pies, bangers, steaks, mash, pastas that are the pub staples from April to November tend to leech into the hottest times (December-March) with fresh fish/seafood still in supporting roles.

Perhaps there is the high wastage factor if it isn’t eaten, perhaps even pub cooks are reluctant to cook the different species in casing other than beer batter, but other than Atlantic Salmon or Hake, pubs don’t fully embrace all and different manner of seafood.

Maybe it is a cost/value thing as good seafood, if you don’t know by now, is more luxury than standard.

So it is left to the two true believers (that I know of) to do the pub/seafood thing; Rubiras at Swallows in Port Melbourne or today’s POTW, The Richmond Seafood Tavern.

No surprise either as they worked together at the legendary boozer The Jika Hotel in Fitzroy, where egalitarianism reigned supreme and no matter who you were, you had to book (and hope for a table) like the rest of the population.

The RST is in the back blocks of Richmond in Elizabeth  St., , underneath North Richmond station, and was formerly known as the Sydenham, a haven for bands to ply their trade in the 80’s.  

The outside doesn’t look flash and indeed once inside it more than resembles the old Jika.  But that is a good thing and if you know the drill, you order platters as recommended, peruse the extensive and very fairly priced wine list and let them do the rest.

The bar almost instantaneously greets on arrival.  On a hot day, a glorious, cold, clean, crisp pot of draught ($4) is the killer start.  Excellent.  To your right, the pub is a bit of a waste land at the moment with the pokies now gone, and plans to create smaller, intimate dining rooms at the “northern” end underway.

The main dining area is bright, well spaced, with both booth and table seating available.  Service to the table, napery, water, bread, completes the package.  The blackboard screams try everything.

The chilli prawns at the RST are irresistible so they are ticked off  ($11 for 2, 3 is the normally the entrée size at 16.5). The coating is rich, the sambal is the kicker.  Love them.

Include also the BBQ Jam prawns (again same price as chilli).  Crunchy, the smoky bbq flavour, sweetened by the chilli jam,  makes for a good contrast to the heavier full on chilli prawns.

Calamari ($15) is recommended.  The rings are lightly coated, fried to perfection, but while nice, fail to really excite me.   My fault.

Pan fried (one of 5 ways to have your fresh fish), I opt for the coral trout ($35).  Rich, white, fleshy, not only does it have a sweet taste, but the pan frying is the way for it to be served.  It is a large slab (around 300gms), shared between the two of us and comes with kitchen prepared chips.  Very Good.

A salad of tomato, onion, rocket ($7) with a balsamic reduction suits the coral trout perfectly, while a bottle of Mountadam Riesling  ($35), not only is a wonderful drop, but outstanding value here.

The RST buzzes on this Thursday and I suspect that most lunches and dinners have a similar good trade.  Simply the message is book, certainly in the warmer months.

As clichéd as every TV/Celebrity sounds when they utter…. ‘ keep it simple, let the produce speak for itself’, they are right.  There are no heavy sauces here at the RST and that allows for the produce to shine, and then by extension, the pub, to augment its reputation.

After all of this time surely, in Melbourne, there is room for third player, to join Danny (RST) and Rubira ( @ Swallows) and do the pub/seafood thing.

VALE:

In November 2010, Melbourne lost a legend from its pub ranks.  Kath Byer, aged 92 died after a short battle with cancer.  Mine host at the Notting Hill Hotel since 1936, Kath was not only a wonderful publican, but an amazing woman, trailblazing Women’s roles in pubs.  She will be remembered by the countless thousands of Monash Uni students who slaked their thirst at the Nott over the years.

Generous, kind, wise. Kath Byer, Vale.

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Tony's Pub Of The Week 2010

New Reviews: Tony Leonard is back again this year providing readers with reviews from all the pubs he visits on the Neil Mitchell program every Friday after 11:30am. Your home for all of the reviews - 3AW.com.au/pub2010. More here.