Pub: Shamrock Hotel
Where: Pall Mall  Bendigo
Phone: 5443 0333
Date: 10 July 2009
Score: 14/20

To give this pub its due and proper respect, close your eyes for a moment and let’s go back in time to a 50’s suburban cinema near you.

While waiting for the epic WW2 movie “The Dambusters”, it’s time for the weekly cine-news, voiced by Kev Goldsby, who is reporting on the (then) 100th birthday of today’s POTW – The Shamrock Hotel, Bendigo.  His report (with apologies) may have gone something like this;

“It’s 3 cheers and happy 100th, for the Shamrock Hotel, this grand old dame of the goldfields in Central Victoria.  Sitting in the middle of historic Bendigo, she stands imperiously over her subjects, the magnificent structure home to millions of pounds of gold when the rush was on in 1854.  Look, do I see some miners from far- away lands, bringing in their new found riches? Yes, and at the end of the day they head to the bar, to enjoy a foreign ale and recount their luck and listen to those less fortunate.  But be careful boys, don’t have too many and lose your miners licence.  The police will pounce!!

 To the Shamrock Hotel, we say Hip, Hip Hooray ,and may you prosper for 100 years more!!

News over, Cue Redgrave and Todd and let the action begin.

Ah, the Shamrock Hotel, a seriously important piece of not only Victoria’s but Australia’s history. Famous visitors aplenty have stayed at the Shamrock, including Prince Charles and Princess Di.

For such a long time, the pub was seen as a place for accommodation and a haven for the commercial traveller and while the “pub” side of things operated, I sensed that it wasn’t the priority of then owners.

So how do new owners convince the locals that it is as much theirs to love and socialise in, while ensuring that its reputation as a “destination” venue is maintained?

Clearly the accommodation side of things will tick over, but take a basic approach to running a pub, i.e., get the public bar happening, utilise the bistro and specialise in steaks, and use the upstairs areas, particularly the balcony, for functions and dining.

So a quick snap shot at all 3 areas. The bar has a TAB and a separate pokies areas which may seem incongruous to its environs.   Neither intrude on the feel of the pub and the bar has a stack of meals in the $5-7 range, e.g., roast of the day, parma, fish and chips.  And they are not miserable serves befitting the small price tag.

Then there is the grill, which tended to be the food focus under previous stewardship.  The walls bear a pictorial history to Bendigo while steaks – priced mid-20s and up, fully plated, are the focus. A range of dining room staples, fish, pastas are also available.  It has struck a chord with the locals if lunch on the Wednesday was a guide.

The pub, on the first level with judicious use of its balcony, has created the Victorian Wine room and it is set out with an aim of producing higher-end dining (napery, cutlery table service).  Victorian wines, with locals heroes such as Balgownie, Blackjack, Taltarni, Connor Park,  Pondolowie, set the theme.

The food is neat bistro, rather than high-end ”gastro”, such as the Royal Mail, Dunkeld, or Grand, Mildura and is priced mid-teens for entrees, to high $20s upwards for mains.

Tried was;
•    Pan seared scallops (3), twice cooked porkbelly, chilli onion jam and midori reduction - $16.50  Very moist, rich, not too sweet and a good representation of the kitchen’s capabilities
•    Chicken breast ( x 2 and very large), filled with SDT’s, basil and bocconcini served with hollandaise and a pumpkin, chick pea and bacon salad - $29.9.  Monstrous serve, very filling, moist chook, but too much on plate.
•    Balgownie 1998 Cab/Sav  (price unknown).  Velvety drop, holding its age remarkably well.

Peking duck pancakes, eye fillet, confit of duck are some of the popular offerings, served in the wonderful old world surroundings.

The point that the Shamrock is making, successfully, is don’t just stay here, eat here as well.  If you like seafood, a platter for $40p.p  may include baked snapper, chilli mussels, garlic prawns, ½ cray as some of the fresh assortment.

As clichéd as it is, there is something in everyone’s price range from $5.00-80.00!!

On the visit, a mid-morning music show was happening with the ageless Denise Drysdale entertaining the crowd; soon Ross Wilson will bring his 45 years of prodigious talent to the Shamrock.

Food’s good, venue’s friendly, and the locals are coming back – maybe it can be all things to all people.

3AW Pub Of The Week 2009

3AW Pub Of The Week is back - and better than ever - on 3AW.com.au. Take the tour through Victoria's best and worst pubs with our expert, Tony Leonard. Click on the image to be taken back to 3AW.com.au/pub.