Pub: Spencer Hotel
Where: 475 Spencer St., West Melbourne
Phone: 329 5111
Date: 20 March 2009
Score: 15/20

Rarely a day passes in 2009 that a news item doesn’t contain the phrases 'Global Economic Crisis', or 'World Financial Meltdown' and increasingly the grim outlook appears to be a fixture for the next couple of years.

It is true that discretionary spend is scrutinised at the strictest levels for at least the last 15 years and given the choice of spend or save, the latter is now an overwhelming favourite in that two-horse race.

And what about the dilemma that pubs/restaurants face, that have pitched to the higher end of the market when confronted by this?

To me its death by a 1000 cuts. Lower standards, cut corners, re-launch yourself, or hope that the reputation is sufficient to firewall yourself against these tough times?

This week I went back to the Spencer Hotel to review for the first time in 10 years, hoping/knowing that it would never drop standards but to enquire about business and see how it is coping.

What I learned was although the drop was significant (around 15 per cent I was told) just one or two things in the past week had given them hope that they could get through.

In 1997 The Spencer was the pub of the year; In 2009 it still remains one of the big hitters in town, serving up outstanding pub tucker and providing real value at the same time.

The old pub stands out on Spencer St., with gold and dark blueish colours and as soon as you enter, you know that it is unmistakably a traditional pub.

The front bar is compact, with tables and chairs covering much of the space, but you can comfortably have one at the (right-angled) bar. Red carpet, floor to half wall high is wood panel, with the rest of the room painted in a warm and striking red/orange.

Through the bar is a small lounge/dining area, (maybe seats 20) but still charging bar prices and here’s at tip; Book a table in there if you are going to dine.

The main dining room reflects the attitude of the publicans with linen, napery, and cutlery at a sharper end than most pubs. The meals are common throughout the pub, but in getting full table service, you will a few (around $3) per plate more.

Beer was good, with the traditional taps ($3.8/pot) supported by Bluetongue, Little Creatures, and St. Arnou.

Depending on your POV it is wonderful value for money, superior pub tucker. Here’s a sample from the bar menu;

- Corned Girello of Beef with Braised Cabbage, Mash & Mustard Cream sauce-$19.5
- Home-made Pork & Sage Sausages with Sauteed Spinach, Buttery Mash & Red Wine Jus for $18

I tried the Filo Pastry Moroccan Lamb pie, mint cream and carrot/raisin salad @$22. I don't believe it; a real pie not a piece of puff in a stewing container. Tasty. more-ish, and comforting.

For $22, the duck confit (large breast) sat atop a truffled mushroom and pea risotto was simply delicious. To me, pub risotto is the equivalent of Harry Houdini’s straight jacket in the water tank trick; few get it right (Spencer easily) but most perish in the process.

The wine list is interesting and doesn’t slavishly adhere to the big boys. Chrismont Chardonnay from the King Valley weighed in at $9/glass, maybe a tad over the odds but nonetheless a wonderful representation of this too easily dismissed grape.

A generous cheese platter (taleggio, blue, aged cheddar, with quince and fruit-$20) to finish and the day was complete.

This pub doesn't embrace TAB/Pokies, so every dollar earned is on the back of a fiercely protected reputation and if it falls over, it won’t be through taking a short cut or dropping a standard

Like so many smaller pubs, I sincerely hope that the Spencer, with the current owners are around for another decade.