Venue: Steam Packet Hotel
Where: 13 Cole St., Williamstown
Phone: 9399 9600
Date: 7 August 2009
Score: 14.5

Less is more: Does anyone really ascribe to this idiom of life?

Consider TV: With the notable exceptions of ‘Fawlty Towers’ and ‘The Office’, once we hit on a great idea it is wrung out to within an inch of its life and whatever appeal it originally had, is lost in an avalanche of repetition.

You know who the culprits are.

Consider Sport: In recent times, cricket has been revolutionised with the addition of 20/20. Loud music, over in 3 hours and everyone, especially kids have a jolly good night out. Right?? Well after 2 years, and what is now a production line of game after game, tournament after tournament, who really cares?

Not so? Ok, then which team won this year’s IPL? (No it wasn’t Warne’s Rajastan Royals – that was last year).

No, more is more and save for a fire which destroyed the famous popular eastern suburban landmark, The Swagman would still be famous for its smorgasbord, and to a brand new generation!

The quantity of pubs in quaint old Williamstown should mean that finding a knock-out beauty would be a matter of course. More is More: choice is ample.

Not so, and only The Staggs Head was more ‘Mother and Son’ than ‘Hey Dad’. Less is more, but there were few believers.

Today’s pub – Steam Packet – was reviewed by me near enough to a decade ago and in spite of its historical environs (built 1863), in spite of its proximity to the water, it could have been another pub, anywhere.

Subtly, changes have been made to the pub landscape in Willi and not before time. First was the Morning Star, then Prince Albert and now the Steam packet and hey presto, the pubs reflect the area.

The Packet is a beauty. Grand old exterior (sullied by some jerk spraying graffiti over it), polished floor boards and bar inside, music played at the right level (best aussie songs were on the CD and ‘I Need You’ by ‘Savage Garden’ was playing – it is a natty piece of pop), couches and a dining room that is painted in deep heritage colours.

The pub screams come in have an ale and enjoy yourself.

Food is really good pub grub, sensibly priced for what you get.

2 entrees were shared. For $8.50, 3 tasty barramundi spring rolls, homemade Asian dipping sauce (not from a bottle) were as good a starter under $10 that I have had in ages. Chicken sticks (3 for $8), same sauce were plump and moist. Presentation was excellent.

Mains ran to the form-card, including a monstrous double pub burger ($20.90) that was meant for 2 but the dining guest knocked it over quickly.
 
A wonderful meal of kangaroo fillets, mango salsa, wilted bok choy and sweet potato mash and crisps ($19.90) was a show stopper. 4 juicy ‘eye fillets’, a real tangy salsa convinced me that the galley can knock out really good pub grub. Again it would easily have fed 2 people.

Wine is sensibly priced - $7.50 for a glass of Jones Jr pinot noir and with beer fresh and clean, the package is complete.

All of this is achieved with new owners, new ideas, no pokies/TAB, and an attitude of being a genuine local for the locals. The Packet themes a couple of nights with $11.90 mains early in the week, music, trivia etc.

Simply put, it works.

And so, all prejudices about Williamstown pubs are all but gone. The revolution has been quiet and effective and although there will be pockets of resistance to change, their pubs stack up very nicely against their counterparts across the Bay.

Maybe the Steam Packet sits atop the pile.

3AW Pub Of The Week 2009

3AW Pub Of The Week is back - and better than ever - on 3AW.com.au. Take the tour through Victoria's best and worst pubs with our expert, Tony Leonard. Click on the image to be taken to the Pub Of The Week directory.