Venue: Union Hotel
Where: 109 Union St., Brunswick
Phone: 9388 2235
Date: 21 August 2009
Score: 14

The exterior is unremarkable; indeed when you look at The Union hotel, there is nothing to suggest there is a hidden treasure awaiting you if you have the fortitude to take the journey inside.

In the not too distant past, the blinds resembled a couple of hung flannelette sheets that you got on special from Fosseys. Bits appear to be tacked on here and there.

The street, Union, is not some thoroughfare waiting to be discovered as Melbourne’s next hot spot, in the tradition of Gertrude in Fitzroy or Errol in North Melbourne.

In fact, the highlight is the boom gates at the Sydney Rd end and the pub is some distance from this.

So why spend a leisure dollar or two there, given there are options aplenty just a km away in Brunswick?

As silly as this sounds, the Union is not in the right spot to garner any sufficient passing traffic to make it a viable business. The (former) Carrington Hotel, just a short distance away in the same street has long ceased trading.

Another question – why stump up the ante and get this one going?

Well, the publicans who buy in know how to capture a market and have done so with their brilliantly understated Fitzroy pub – The Standard.

The old girl now has a fighting chance with these sets of eyes.

Let me make a big statement; The Union WILL become one of the best inner suburban pubs in the next 12 months or so; for now it is getting everything right from the great draught beer, interesting food priced perfectly, and a feel that encourages families to come and share a communal venue.

The bar is old fashioned, straight out of the 60’s, and is easy to sit at while completing your cryptic – at least 3 people were attempting a palindrome in Eden (answer: Eve, the only cryptic clue I have solved) as the recorded music played in the background.

A small stage for live music, a regular feature at the Union, a smaller ante room (space for 10 or so to dine) a larger dining room for the masses, with sufficient kitsch dotted around the pub sets it up comfortably.

As soon as you walk in, you know you’ve made a good decision.

The beer garden is smallish, with shed like shelter available to keep the rays off the scone. Table service, yep, and that inexact component of hospitality – ambience – is in abundance.

I like the food, a mix of traditional, with a surprise or two. All tastes are catered for, with mains priced in the high teens-low 20s.

Tried was a mix of entrées including;

•    Brushetta, 3 pieces for $6 (fair) with mozzarella and parmesan,
•    Home made sausage rolls (lamb and beef) for $8. Nice too!!
•    Duck wantons, dipping sauce - $6 – Yes and plenty of meat in the small parcels
•    Pie of the day @ $18– Chicken and mushroom – and a proper pastry encased pie with mash and veg – very filling and very fairly priced
•    Wagyu minute steak - $19 – with chips and pan juices. Thinly sliced, aged to 500 days and very sweet to my palate. Enjoyable.

Wine pricing is sensible with moderate mark-ups. A bottle of O’Leary Walker Watervale Reisling weighed in at $30. Good drop and a bargain at that price.

There are some cosmetic changes still to take place, but the owners have spent sufficient to get it where it is today, including a new kitchen.

The Union has captured the essence of a number inner suburban pubs, with food, music and feel to create, what I believe, is the best pub in Brunswick, and indeed one of the better in the northern suburbs.

And The Union will get better. So here’s your challenge – grab some friends, keep it a secret, and walk to the pub and gauge the reaction.

After the ‘you gotta be joking’ look which is a near certainty, head inside and enjoy the hospitality. I think you’ll like.

3AW Pub Of The Week 2009

3AW Pub Of The Week is back - and better than ever - on 3AW.com.au. Take the tour through Victoria's best and worst pubs with our expert, Tony Leonard. Click on the image to be taken to the full directory of Tony's 2009 reviews.