Pub:  Yorkshire Hotel
Where:     48 Hoddle St., Abbotsford
Phone:  9417 3088
Date:  6 August 2010
Score:  14.7/20
Internet:  www.yorkshirehotel.com.au

Like footy teams, I find myself barracking for owner/operator pubs: they are the type that are easily championed and, to continue the footy analogies, have to kick into the breeze for 3 of the 4 quarters.

By that I mean there isn’t a bank of 5 golden rhinos supporting the bottom line. Any success is small and measured. The foundations are on the back of a great offer of food and beverage. You have been given the hospitality 101 lecture from me before, but gee its nice when delivered.

It was around 15 months ago when I wrote about this pub, then known as the Yorkshire Stingo, (and may still be, but methinks the ‘stingo’ has been dropped if the very informative web site is any indication).

The guts of that review was; pub near enough knackered, female owner operator living a dream hoping life is breathed back into the old girl, long hours, cheaper meals, see how we go etc.

To be fair, YSH regained a pulse, an offer came along, and the owners from the Limerick in North Melbourne made a good offer and deal was done. In the strangest twist, Alison, who ran the Stingo went to another pub – The Limerick in North Melbourne!!

The most noticeable impact that the new owners, Peter and Nigel, have done is ramp up the food and bev and give a real focus to their dining room. My first reaction was a massive ‘yes’ and the best is to come IF they can maintain the offer.

The pub is basically split in two - a small bar, TAB yes, with an area set aside to dine in front of an open fire. A small beer garden is discreetly set aside if outdoors is your thing. Parking is not bad.

The dining room is very neatly set out, covered tables, napery, and an attentive staff bringing the food and drink. Bread, water to the table without asking – yes.

What absolutely wins me is that the pricing is outstanding value for what you get. and the food, simple in execution, makes for a great read while knocking over a chilled, frothy, clean tasting 7ozer. Fat Yak and Ranga red ale are a point of difference.

Tell me you don’t like getting a freebie. The 15 or so of us dining were treated to an amuse bouche, (thank you big Matty P, I knew it was something like that!!) a taster of a carrot/orange broth – a sweet and spicy small of liquid gold that refreshed before the mains.

It was nice. And free!!

Tried was;

-  Parmesan crumbed veal schnitzel, mash, slaw and lemon wedge. $19.50. A thicker than usual fillet, it was very tasty supported by the richness of the mash, with the slaw and lemon cleansing the palate and cutting through the fattiness of the schnitzel.

-  Grass fed, 250g Black Angus Eye Fillet, kiplers, slaw, and a sauce. Stacks of wonderful Tassie beef hitting the tables in Victoria, this piece no exception, all for $28, brought to the table and fully plated. Bargain.

-  Dessert of Spanish churros, home made vanilla bean ice cream, chocolate sauce - $8. Yes, yes. Yes, ( although a donut is a donut if you know what I mean).

-  Sheer Drop Merlot - $39/bottle – a smooth drop from Harcourt, near Bendigo. Very easy drinking. The wine list is very well thought out and doesn’t run to a two times table.

There is a range of counter meals, priced cheaper (but not much) than those in the bistro and again push a boundary beyond bangers and mash ( not that there’s anything wrong with those beauties).

The battle for hearts and minds is long and while the new look and feel Yorkshire is making promising noises, with spring approaching, I hope they get their share.

Every effort is being undertaken to get the Yorkshire back to former glories and along with the equally wonderful Carringbush, there are 2 pubs with 100 metres giving a real bang for the buck.

I like.

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