Pub:          Skinny Dog Hotel
Where:     155 High St., Kew
Phone:        9853 8023
Date:         17 September 2010
Score:         13.5/20

Internet:    www.skinnydoghotel.com.au

Being shot down by the listeners when I proclaimed that very few pubs in Melbourne aren’t on a corner, one that had escaped my attention (and can be added to the list) is the Skinny Dog in Kew, but a Tony Shaw torpedo from the junction.

And like the suburb itself, The SDH plays it sure and steady with its offer; nothing outrageous to scare away the Indians but certainly nothing so remarkable as to stand out from its brethren either.

It is ages since my last visit and the pub has been modernised with the refurbished beer garden being a feature and no doubt a popular meeting place when Melbourne’s weather finally runs closer to the form-card.

No pokies or TAB so it is the food, beer and hospitality that the SDH stands on.  

Ok, I am older than the targeted demographic, but if anyone can tell me that lunchtime, Thursday afternoon, should see the video jukebox up to around 7 in volume rat power, then clearly I have no idea of comfort.

It is an increasing problem in pubs and be assured owners, it is the difference in getting that extra sale or leaving and heading elsewhere.

I find the pub curious with its irregularly shaped areas, bar here, dining rooms there, all at odd angles.  Don’t get me wrong, the fitout is very nice but if I was heading to have a few with a group of people there would be a surfeit of excuse me’s as people make their way to the bar.

Food has some points of difference; the wine is absolutely priced to the mark.  I sat in the bistro area (the best term I can come up with!!) with the backdrop being a frame by frame black and white of the majestic whippet in full flight.  Beer was good, and table service offered.

The shared entrée was the char grilled lamb kofta, roasted eggplant and tahini for $16.  Two very good sized lamb footballs were filling, tasty and moist.  The price was at the higher end for an entree, but to be fair was a good representation of the kitchen’s capability.  

Zuccini and feta fritters, roasted pumpkin and walnut salad, and Moroccan spiced calamari  - all priced mid –teens – are other offerings of interest.

There is a $15 express lunch offer and I took up the 3 cheese gnocchi, prosciutto and truffle oil.  

This is served at $24 normally, but the dish, served in an earthen bowl was insanely rich and while I was incapable of getting through it, the meal  had an allure that demanded you go back and have a piece from time to time.

The Hopkins river porterhouse, 300g, is $28.  Fries with a neat green salad made for a good pub plate.  It seems there is a lot of this beef and was very well presented by the SDH.

The wine list, save for an offering or two in the low $30’s tends to average around the $40 and above mark.  Not wishing to stereotype the affluence of Kew and relative affordability, but don’t tell me that they don’t enjoy a bargain as much as the next person.

O’Leary Walker Riesling ($45) is a good drop but could easily have a few dollars shaved.  Tried was Jones Rd pinot noir, good drinking but $40 is steep in my opinion.

Something I have also noticed, and the SDH is not alone in this, but the price of the humble parma is starting to become a big ticket item on pub menus.  Here it is $25, and while I can’t comment on the quality, (free range, better hams and cheese used, low/no carbon footprint??) it does stand out when you were looking for this in the high teens.

Maybe it has become sophisticated, maybe pubs realise it is so easy to knock up and the punters will tumble in no matter the price.

Anyway, I like the SDH – it will be interesting to see whether all the changes will attract a loyal following given its position in the strip shops of High St.