Bob Hart's Cold Soups

There are two glorious cold soups in the world,  and several pretty good ones. These gems are designed to remind us that even in summer, soup is a vital ingredient of a balanced and civilised life.

The two cold masterpieces are:

VICHYSSOISE

Some chefs and cooking writers are keen to adjust this classic, either by adding such things as thyme, leaving out the nutmeg, or by insisting that the butter used to sweat the leeks and potatoes becomes unpleasant when cold. Bah, humbug!

Try it this way, and if you have a problem with it, blame me. As well, of course, as the admirable Louis Diat who, as head chef of New York�s Ritz Carlton hotel, created this gem, this way � in 1917.

Recipe:

Gently sweat 6 large, sliced leeks (white part only), covered, with 1 small, sliced onion in a knob of unsalted butter. When soft, add 4 medium potatoes, peeled and cubed, and 850 mls light chicken stock (with all fat removed, it you make your own). Add salt, white pepper and freshly-ground nutmeg to taste. Simmer for 20 mins, or until potatoes are tender. Puree in a blender, forcing through a fine sieve if you like it to be really silky. Cool, then chill, and finally, just before serving, stir in a few good glugs of pure pouring cream (not thickened � it�s nasty stuff). Finish each portion with a sprinkle of chopped chives. Rejoice!

GAZPACHO

The excellence of your gazpacho depends on several things: the quality of your gloriously ripe tomatoes, the excellence of your finest sherry vinegar and the quality of your EV olive oil. Also, remember this is a dish you must shape to your own taste. If you feel it needs more sherry vinegar, then add more. Be generous with the sea salt. And if you do not like things sharpened up with Tabasco, then leave it out.

Recipe:

Peel 1kg ripe tomatoes by scoring the bottoms, blanching for 30 seconds and refreshing in cold water. Peel off skin and discard, nip out the cores and roughly chop tomatoes.

Soak 100g stale bread, crusts removed, in water. Then, squeeze water from bread. Place, with tomatoes, in a food processor with 1/2 continental cucumber, 1/2 large red capsicum, 1 clove garlic, 1/2-1 hot red chilli, all coarsely chopped, and process until smooth. Add 4 tbs EV olive oil, 2tbs sherry vinegar, sea salt, freshly-ground black pepper and Tabasco to taste. Chill, and serve with grilled bread drizzled with EV olive oil.