Bob Hart's scrambled eggs

Our good chum Matt Preston last weekend told the world – or his Melbourne readers, at least – how to make scrambled eggs. He based his recipe on one used by his grandfather. And while the recipe sounded a bit odd to me, I tried it anyway and … it was appalling. Sorry Matt.

Matt’s theory is that you first whisk the eggs lightly with a splash of water, then cook them very, very slowly. He makes it all sound rather delicious but, trust me, these were not. I found on this occasion, just as I have found on other occasions that I have tried similar methods, that scrambling eggs slowly presents you with a mushy mess of eggs with a rather unpleasant texture. And while anyone who admires cravats and Matt’s robust sense of humour should probably try his eggs for themselves, after you have tried them, try this:

BOB HART’S MATT-FREE SCRAMBLERS

Break three free-range eggs into a bowl. Add a splodge of pouring cream (never milk, and never, ever, water) and season well with sea salt and freshly ground pepper. Whisk vigorously to combine yolks and whites well to avoid lumps of white in your scramblers, which I hate.

Place a good, non-stick pan on the heat and melt a generous knob of good butter (French unsalted, ideally) in it.  Heat it to medium-hot and when the butter has stopped frothing, but before it colours, pour in the eggs. Let them set briefly (about 20 seconds) and scrape the cooked outer edges towards the centre of the pan with a spatula. Repeat this process about 20 seconds later, and again if necessary to eliminate most of the liquid egg. Lift off the heat while the egg is still wet, but has formed large curds. Serve immediately on toast, with a sprinkling of fresh chives if you like or, if you can lay your hands on a fresh truffle, some truffle shavings over the top.

Now those, Matt, are scrambled eggs. With all due respect to your grandfather, of course. But even grandfathers, and sensibly proportioned critics in cravats, can stuff up their eggs, occasionally.