REVIEW: Baden Powell Hotel

Pub:               Baden Powell Hotel

Where:          61-65 Victoria Pde., Collingwood

Phone:           9486 0811
Date:             16 September2009

Score:            15.5/20

Wow.

I walk in and don’t believe the refit. Surely, this can’t be same pub that I went to some 5 years ago.

The Baden Powell Hotel has enjoyed varying fortunes over the years, but with its neighbours booming in parallel Gertrude St., and the just-down-the-road Prince Patrick filling the role of the traditional pub, the BPH looked an absolute moral to be “town-housed”.

Simply, the caravan had moved on, and in spite of its proximity to the CBD heading East, there wasn’t a compelling reason to pop in.

But in the lilting lyrics of New Romantics, ABC, ‘that was then, this is now’. (yes, I  know that Poison Arrow was their showstopper but in a pub review, it just doesn’t fit).

This is a beauty.  This is a real Pub of the year contender.

Bringing together the brains of gun Carlton pub, The Kent, using the skills of some of the team at the city eatery, Seamstress, this small pub has had a monstrous makeover, and each element works brilliantly.  Soon a member of the Di Stasio kitchen will join in the fun.

The small front bar is retained; with the open kitchen banging out wonderful small plates and the best pizzas, (all comers) it is easy to relax and get a real bang for your buck.

Polished boards, neat tables (bread, water, oil for dipping and your own container of Sicilian sea-salt) with old styled prints on the walls, it remains firmly in the Collingwood pub family as far as feel goes, but with a modern direction, this is a winner for all ages.

The menu is set out on one page (and a few specials dotting the blackboard).  Interestingly, the pub does one steak (rib-eye @ $30), one fish (snapper was the choice that day at $25) and a couple of pastas, including a most delicious looking linguini marinara for $17.

There is also a 28 page booklet outlining the range of beers, wines and spirits available, which is a pleasant companion if dining alone.

Staff is attentive and friendly (the only slow was the volume of the excellent background music which was lowered on request) so it’s all systems go. The small-courtyard provides another dining area.

Tried was;

·         Veal meatballs (4) in a green tomato sauce for $8.  Near enough a meal on its own.  Tasty and moist,

·         Lamb Cutlets (2) wrapped in prosciutto, atop a white bean mash. At $10, this was one of the best 3 starters this year tried

·         Arancini (rice balls) with a veal filling and tomato sugo.  Hot, creamy, tasty and $8 only for 2.

Pizza is a highlight.  6 or so choices, $16-18 for a large slab that isn’t confined to a cylindrical tray.

Simply it is brought to your table with a pizza cutter and you cut as much or little as eat.  Clever, very clever, but it is a superior offering to nearly any I have tasted over the years.  At $18 I ordered the choice was ‘il carne’,  pork and fennel sausage, with buffalo mozzarella, tomato and basil shreds.

The base is what all pizzas live or die by; theirs is outstanding.

Here’s the challenge; grab some friends, go there and gauge the reaction. If they aren’t praising you with the “how did you find this place”, I will be staggered.

There is a magnificent private dining room, a small front yard to have ale and watch the Victoria parade traffic go by and soon enough, the BPH will be doing Sunday roasts.

I know that whenever I gush about a pub, invariably I receive feedback with an opposite view to me and that’s fine.

Let me know if you take the tip and sample – I think it is brilliant now and will only get better.