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Middle Park European

20 Armstrong Street, Middle Park

The first Instagram post from MP European acts as not just a great resume but also a number of reasons why you should visit them, unreservedly; “If you love what we do at Tartine Bistro (French Bistro in Swan St), adore the fresh pastas from Ines Wine Bar (Windsor), go wild for the hearty meatballs at Meatball and Wine Bar (CBD), swoon over the lobster croissant from Neds Bakery (Armadale, Albert Park, Middle Park), or like to be indulgent at Sistine (on Chapel), then head over and follow our soon-to-open MP European.” Matteo Bruno, the owner, is a local, and it immediately feels like he understands the area and what it was clearly lacking. They’re open for lunch through to dinner 6 nights a week, and their vibe is upper class but casual, make with that what you will. 

Their second Instagram post highlights the heritage details in the venue that they’ve kept, namely the stained glass windows to make you feel like you’ve stepped off the streets of some European cityscape. Which, by the way – on the corner of Armstrong Street in Middle Park, wide streets a plenty – you could almost be in. The need for the prefix ‘Middle Park’ before the European is important to not get confused with The European at the top of Spring Street.

Opened only on June 3rd, there was already a split but clear clientele building – in the dark, moody section, was groups of young 20 somethings looking for great food and a couple of bottles for the table but there was also, very comfortably the slightly more wise, mature couples who know to leave room for cheese at the end of their mains. There was also bar seating that single diners were most certainly and comfortably inhabiting for the night with a side of chat from the staff. 

We were served by a beautiful French waiter who knew the power of his piercing blue eyes, and when we asked about the wine told us he’d just check with the ‘sommelier’. You can feel pretty confident the wine was very good. He was the perfect host, checking on us throughout the night and apologising endearingly when he had to interrupt us to ask any follow-ups.

Each dish feels like a thoughtful take on classic European flavours, elevated by fresh ingredients and expert execution. Here’s a breakdown of what I sampled:

We started at the obvious place – when in Rome; the Caviar Blini
was a classic combination of velvety crème fraîche, delicate caviar, and the crunch of a house-made blini. The pickled shallots added a refreshing tang, cutting through the richness and creating a balanced bite. 

Moving on to the possibly more obvious, Beef Tartare. This dish was beautifully prepared, the finely chopped beef seasoned just enough to let the raw flavours shine. The cured egg yolk added a silky richness, while horseradish provided a slight kick. It was wonderfully paired with a glass of Thom Clarke single Vintage Malbec from the Barossa that I washed it down with. or a crisp white wine. Following the almost eye-rollingly obvious entrees order from me was the stracciatella – this was a lighter, refreshing option. The smooth stracciatella cheese paired beautifully with the slight heat of pickled chili and the sweetness of persimmon. The pistachio added an unexpected crunch, and the mint lifted the entire dish. 

For mains, there was one clear pick in the Steak Frites
- The tarragon butter was aromatic and rich, making each bite indulgent. The frites were crisp, hot, and a great sidekick to the steak. At $39, it feels like a fair price for the quality and portion size.

But for me, the win of the night stands in a slightly more adventurous dish. The Pan-Roasted Duck Breast was perfectly cooked, the skin crispy and golden, with a tender, juicy interior. The pancetta added depth of flavour      , while the brussels sprouts and creamy mashed potato complemented the richness. White wine sauce tied everything together without overwhelming the dish. At $43, it’s definitely a splurge, but the dish is hearty and satisfying, perfect for a special occasion.

On the side, I couldn’t leave without trying their Heirloom Carrots
- beautifully sweet and tender, with a delightful herby finish from the marjoram verde. Simple yet flavorful, they make a great accompaniment to any main, adding colour and freshness to the plate. 

While Middle Park European offers a top-tier dining experience, it’s worth noting that prices do reflect the quality and location. The dishes range from $16 for a side to $56 for a main, and while it may seem steep, the flavours and presentation justify the price. If you’re looking for an indulgent night out, this is definitely a spot worth visiting. It’s a worthwhile splurge, offering a sophisticated night out that justifies the cost for those special occasions and maybe even a baby sitter or a special frock.

Image: Supplied.