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The Leveson Hotel

Where: 46 Leveson St, North Melbourne

Phone: 9328 1109

Internet: www.theleveson.melbourne

SCORE: 14/20

OCTOBER 10

VENUE: Slightly off the beaten track in Leveson St, North Melbourne (if you can be in this suburb), stands a grand old warrior pub – The Leveson – who in spite of name changes over the journey and a few of its brethren lost to developers (Black Prince, North Star, Homebush, Royal Park), still trades confidently and successfully.

From the outside it looks like any other inner city pub, but on entering is deceptively big inside, split over three levels with a gorgeous beer garden to the rear.

The front bar is clean, modern, spacious: the sport ticks over quietly in the corner. Two well set out upper levels to dine (wait-staff calves’ must ache at days end after climbing) but the trick here is clever use of curtails and partitions to allow privacy for a gathering/function if you would like that.

A comfortable, compact, well set out beer garden finishes the outlay, and it’s a no brainer as to why it has stood the test of (pub) time.

Tab: No
Pokies: No

Admire the fact that the Lev doesn’t do a join the dots menu, much of which is done from scratch so a real difference in ordering is presented. There were a couple of minor issues, but overall it was fine.

Mac ‘n’ cheese croquettes, chimichurri mayo – 5/$18, and salt and pepper calamari, cabbage and shiso slaw, sesame dressing, $18, kicked off a choice of eight starters.

Popcorn cauliflower, curry mayo, togarashi seasoning, fried curry leaf ($17) had a spicy kick, let down a little due to the shredding of cauliflower, rather than bigger florets for a bigger taste.

All pub favourites covered; chicken parmigiana, smoked ham, napoli and mozzarella, leaf salad and beer battered chips ($30), with different take on a burger (other than beef) with crumbed portobello burger, harissa muhammara, pomegranate molasses, butter lettuce, pickles, beer battered chips ($27).

Again the roast ($32) had a curious pairing; rolled porchetta, roast pumpkin, brussel sprouts, basil pesto, the latter overly generous with the meat placed atop.

Accordingly, flavour was slightly lost on the meat, but still (and not for the first time this year) without the traditional playmates.

Must be me.

Very Good Carlton D ($7/pot) from a good range of tap beer, Christmont Sangiovese ($15) was another example from this underrated producer that hit the mark, chosen from a small list. (Memo to pub: There seems to be discrepancies between published on line menu and what’s available).

HIGHLIGHT/S:

Main. Pork and fennel sausages, potato mash, caramelised onion and mustard jus, $32.

Great snags, rustic, full of flavour, fine companions to enjoy the flavours, a plate full of pub happiness.

Something Different to Eat: Churros, cinnamon sugar, roasted banana dulce de leche, $15.

You look at this beautiful dessert and a severe case of FOMO kicks in. Advice: Leave some space.

Surcharges: Cards – one per cent, Amex – three per cent, public holidays – 15 per cent.

Summary: Standing the test of time whether it be the El Dorado in years past and now the Leveson, this is one pub that you can be confident that all expectations will be met.

Its versatility in splitting itself into many areas to ensure your own space is but one of many good things about the place.

The Leveson in all aspects of its business remains steady and reliable and you are immediately at ease on entering.

Good staff, nice layout, all add up to a satisfying experience.