Press PLAY to hear Tony Leonard’s full review

Brandon Hotel

Where: 237 Station St, Carlton North

Phone: 9347 2382

Internet: www.brandonhotel.com.au

SCORE: 14/20

OCTOBER 17

VENUE: Brandon Hotel is a fabulous old pub, beloved by locals that exudes a welcome that has engendered a loyal following just tucked away at the back of the San Remo Ballroom in Station St.

Pubs like this are a rare beast nowadays (Union, Brunswick//North Port, Port Melbourne) that remain true to their history and now with a change of ownership, the baton has been passed successfully to the new chums.

The front bar is slightly raised, with tables dotted around the perimeter and a sweeping U shape bar to have one standing and chatting still look the same from 20 years ago (Brandon was Pub of the Year in 2005).

In keeping with historical references, the colour scheme could pass for VFA’s Prahran footy jumper (dark/light blue). Great to see the specials blackboard in tact.

Tab: No
Pokies: No

Through to the dining rooms (two), the setout is neat but not overdone, pub carpets, padded seats, spacious set out, through to the beer garden.

The Brandon doesn’t need bells and whistles, just a commitment to its customers, which it does easily.

Given the newness of operation, the food offering is still a work in progress, e.g, three starters, four mains, four classics and two desserts.

What is served passes any pub test, with potato cakes, salt, vinegar (3/$8) again appearing on a pub menu.

Prices are reasonable e.g, parma ($28), burger ($25) and calamari ($26). Soon enough, a greater selection will be available, but for now, all’s fine.

Carlton D ($7/pot) was very good, and the tap offerings include a number of independents. The hospitality package is delivered well.

HIGHLIGHT/S:

Main, special roast, $30. Thick round piece, generously plated, beans, potato, and cauliflower was perfect for a cold Sunday. Nice crackle on the fat, all good.

Something Different to Eat: Given the lilliputian (by pub standards) menu for food, nothing stood out, BUT all wine is $12pg/$55 btle, for quality brands such as Athletes of Wine Sangiovese /Malbec or Punt Rd Pinot G.

There is a genuine tip of the cap for the reasonable attitude the pub has taken here. Thank you.

Surcharges: None (at this stage). Website is still under construction (at 3/11: C’mon team!!)

Summary: There’s a most compelling reason to enjoy the Brandon, aside from the good food and drink offered.

The pub is a genuine loner in an age where the corporate interest in the bricks and mortar is now unstoppable, and with the long standing corporate dictum of homogenisation of offer in all pubs under its umbrella, what you get at one will basically be the same as its second cousin in nearby suburbs.

I know this has a melancholy tone, but the publican/family run pub is slowly dying in Melbourne.

There are true believers, like the Brandon that still provide the personal touch and should be cherished.

It’s early days yet, and there are some teething problems but overall, the Brandon is on the path to a successful run.