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Emilia reviews Berwick’s vibrant New York-inspired restaurant

Ross and Russ
Article image for Emilia reviews Berwick’s vibrant New York-inspired restaurant

Bodega on High

88/90 High St

Berwick 

Press PLAY to listen to Emilia FULL food review.

If you’re heading down to Berwick, perhaps to pick up your new Mercedes-Benz after missing out on one this morning I’ve got the perfect spot for you to refuel and lift your spirits. Since opening its doors in September 2023, Bodega on High has been quietly earning cult status among locals. But frankly, this place deserves to draw crowds from across the suburbs.

Bodega was actually on Rumour File last Tuesday…for good reasons, I swear. The glowing “JOY” Christmas sign you’ll see lighting up the main street was funded not by the council, but by Bodega as a way to give back to the community.

The brainchild of owner and chef Leroy, Bodega takes its inspiration from the vibrant American corner stores that locals in New York call “bodegas.” The concept is simple but genius: a casual spot where you can just as easily grab a bagel, sandwich, cookie, loaded milkshake, or, because this is Australia- a plate of creamy vodka pasta. And unlike most corner stores, every bite here tastes like it was made with serious chef chops.

What immediately sets Bodega apart is its freshly baked bread, made in-house daily. The standout is the aptly named ‘OG’, a towering Deli-style pastrami sandwich that feels straight out of Manhattan. It’s built with thick-cut, warm house-made pastrami, mustard, and butter, all sandwiched between slices of soft sourdough. The pastrami isn’t just any deli meat, either- it’s Wagyu, served in three generous slices. The result? A sandwich that rivals some of Melbourne’s very best, possibly even Katz’s Deli-inspired enough to make a New Yorker nod in approval.

If you’re after something saucier, the Sticky Brisket Hoagie should be your next move. It’s a masterclass in balance- braised beef brisket glazed with Dr. Pepper, drenched in kewpie mayo, and finished with lettuce and salt-and-pepper crisps for crunch. The name “hoagie” hails from Philadelphia, where these loaded rolls are a way of life. 

The Philly Cheesesteak also makes an appearance on the menu, built with ground beef brisket, American cheddar, caramelised onions, and pickle relish. I tried it on gluten-free bread, which did the job, though the texture didn’t quite match the indulgence of the regular loaf. Still, the filling itself- rich and melty with a bit of sweetness, delivered. 

For a side, I sampled the Southern Chicken, which nailed the golden trifecta: light, crispy, and crunchy. No proper visit to Bodega ends without dessert, and the Dubai Chocolate Cookie is the perfect sweet closer. If you haven’t encountered the Dubai chocolate trend yet, it’s pistachio spread and middle eastern pastry which is more like vermicelli crispy noodles inside decadent chocolate – now image that as a cookie. 

I swung by just before 11am and slipped right in, but I’ve heard the line starts to form as lunchtime nears. And honestly? It makes perfect sense. With its unbeatable mix of New York inspiration, local pride, and pure flavour, Bodega on High isn’t just another café, it’s the new hub of High Street.

So next time you’re cruising through Berwick, maybe still dreaming about that car you didn’t win, pull over here instead. Because while luck may come and go, a great sandwich made with heart is always worth the trip.

Ross and Russ
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