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Sardine
69 Esplanade
Paynesville

If you’re looking for a proper summer road trip destination, something that feels like a real escape without needing a boarding pass, point the car east and head to Paynesville, about three and a half hours out of Melbourne.

It’s this picture-perfect little town on the Gippsland Lakes, and hidden right on the Esplanade is Sardine Eatery and Bar, one of the best reasons to make the drive.

We got there a bit early, so we started at the adjoining wine bar next door, and we naturally had to get a local wine with a Lightfoot & Sons Myrtle Point Vineyard Pinot Noir from just up the road in the Gippsland Lakes district, 30 minutes away from where we sat.

It’s smooth and bright with a bit of spice, the kind of wine that seems tailor-made for a coastal summer dinner. We brought the bottle straight to the table when we sat down to eat.

Sardine’s got that coastal cool thing down pat.

Big windows that frame the water, sunlight spilling across polished timber, and a relaxed, nautical feel that lets you know you’re exactly where you should be, on holiday.

It’s intimate too, maybe 40 seats, so you get that personal touch from Chef Mark Briggs (ex-Vue de Monde) and the team.

Briggs, who trained under top chefs in London before falling in love with the Gippsland coast, has built the menu entirely around local produce.

Everything feels fresh, precise, and so clearly connected to the region, the menu calls it out too, so you know the honey comes from 5km up the road.

There is no doubting how fresh everything is. They’ve just earned themselves a Good Food Guide hat for 2026 as well, so they’re being correctly recognised for their excellence.

We kicked off with their sea salt khorasan sourdough and seaweed butter, a tiny ritual that sets the tone.

The bread’s chewy and nutty, the butter brings this ocean-y tang that instantly reminds you you’ve left the city behind.

The grilled quail was next, with pine nuts, currants, and a little sherry vinegar.

That balance of smoky, sweet, and tangy is exactly what Sardine does best.

The zucchini flower stuffed with tangy goat’s cheese and local Tambo Valley (30 mins) honey could’ve been straight from a garden picnic.

Then came the seared Bermagui tuna (4 hours), perfectly rare, with shiso ponzu and fresh edamame, light, clean, and almost too pretty to eat.

If you’re in sharing mode, the shallot-crusted beef with potato and peppercorn sauce is the go-to, big, rich, and confident- it is a bit on the pricey side at $90, but it’s a huge serving and can attest that it even works warmed up the next morning on a camping stove for steak sandwiches.

The fresh pappardelle with confit duck leg, zucchini, and salted ricotta was rich but not heavy, with that kind of slow-cooked flavour that makes you want to linger over every bite.

They cut the zucchini into pea-shaped and sized pieces, which showed their attention to detail.

The Lindenow (30 mins away) beans, tossed through a truffle and tarragon vinaigrette, were the best kind of surprise – crisp, fragrant, and proof that even the sides get their time to shine.

The fillet of snapper with mussels, lemongrass, and saffron was bright and aromatic, the seafood cooked just right so it almost melted on the fork.

And for dessert, that honey and pine nut parfait… just silky, golden, and sweet in all the right ways.

You can actually taste that same Tambo Valley honey all the way through the meal, which somehow ties the whole experience together.

You’ll want to book ahead because it fills up fast, especially over summer.

But here’s the good news, if you can’t snag a table, there’s the Sardine Wine Bar right next door. Same great local feel, plenty of small plates, a killer drinks list, and you still get that lakeside energy.

Sardine is a slice of what makes regional Victoria special. It’s relaxed but refined, colourful without fuss, and well worth the road trip.

So pack a hat, queue up a few playlists, and make the drive.

Paynesville’s calling, and Sardine’s waiting with a glass of wine and a view of the water.

Image: Supplied