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Marquis of Lorne

Where: 411 George St, Fitzroy

Phone: 9417 5001

Internet: www.marquisoflorne.com.au

SCORE: 15.5/20

FEBRUARY 20

VENUE: The setting is quiet George Street, Fitzroy and emerging from Smith or Brunswick Streets, is the Marquis Of Lorne, a wonderful two to three storey brick “terrace” public house that is genuinely beloved by all those who head there.

The footpath, in spite of the dense population, is set out serenely on the corner of Kerr/George and no matter what the weather, is a focal point for community and catch ups. The ground floor is BC Old School front bar, with timber floorboards and a close, but not claustrophobic feel. Brilliantly curated Britpop, as the background is played at the perfect level.

Up the stairs to level one is the dining room, a fireplace the centrepiece and the galley in full view, is a hive of activity. No bells/whistles, just a great vibe created from being here.

Up another set of stairs to the rooftop gardens which can double as a function area and in massaging that wonderful line from the movie Spotswood (Collette and Mendelsohn). From here, you can (almost) see Yarraville and Seddon.

Young partners got together some years ago and had a crack at this fickle hospitality business and now operate four to five inner suburban pubs.

The similar thread between the Marquis of Lorne and their others, (Royal Oak Fitzroy North) share, is better level, uncomplicated hospitality. They, and the Marquis of Lorne continue to succeed.

MENU: This is a punchy, joyous menu of starters, mains, wines, beers. Choosing, in spite of smallish options, is complex as each meal leaving the pass screams ‘eat/try me’ with each component part supporting another.

It’s not complex pub-food alchemy; indeed it’s the opposite, with just a few ingredients so well worked.

And also, there’s one or two signature dishes from the MOL that have been part of the scene here for 15 plus years, the Makybe Diva of the lot is the rockling burger, chips (29).

Starters are highlighted by salt and pepper tofu, green papaya salad, chilli, lime ($18) or pan fried halloumi, peperonata, hot honey ($18). And the rarely seen potato cakes, aioli ($14), make a welcome appearance; these are thick, hot, golden.

Seven mains, two desserts, are elevated classics. Grilled barramundi, w/fennel, olive and orange salad, taramasalata from the mains ($34), creme brulee ($16) from the desserts.

Average Prices:

Entrees/starters: $18

Mains: $31

Desserts: $16

Surcharges: None. Cards only.

Beer: Carlton, $7

Wine: $15pg

Roast: $36 (Sunday)

The wine list is well lengthy and well thought out with extra choices (good) in the Per Glass (PG) offer and smaller producers represented. Around $14-15 will get you a decent and different glass.

One such example of the difference is Alles Klar ‘Curator of the Guggenheim’ Pet Nat (Faraday, Vic) @$14pg, Riesling, $14pg.

Tab: No
Pokies: No

Jack Ginnivan Steak Index (JGSI): This week; 250gm sirloin, chips, green peppercorn sauce and salad, $46.

HIGHLIGHT/S:

Chicken schnitzel, slaw/salsa, lemon, $29. Thick, fresh and done from scratch. Perfectly executed, brilliant example of this most popular dish can/should be done. Some chips, (at an additional cost, but not as a side), would take to another level.

Something Different to Eat: Entree: Sticky pork croquettes w/ gribiche and sugar snaps (4/$20). Thick, meaty croquettes, big rustic flavours with nice sauces providing the cut through. Crowd favourite.

Summary: Fitzroy remains, after at least two decades, as the place to head to for something different in pubs.

And while many pubs fill an honour roll in postcodes 3065/3066, the Marquis of Lorne has been at the top of its game for years.

Call it look/appearance/location as advantages over many of its brethren, but the Marquis of Lorne delivers on the things that matter most for its loyal customer base: Hospitality.

Wonderful pub. Successful trading for years to come.