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Auntie Annie’s Hotel

Where: 271 Racecourse Rd, Kensington

Phone: 9191 2125

Internet: auntieannieshotel.com.au

SCORE: 14.2/20

FEBRUARY 27

VENUE: Formerly trading as the beloved Quiet Man, this Irish themed pub was a mainstay of the area, but increasing throughout the late 2010s, seemed destined for conversion into soulless units/flats.

Mercifully, new owners with a fresh set of eyes saw the value in continuing the tradition and with deft, but not overdone touches, have given new life here and early indications are such, that the changes have been well received.

Named after a former housekeeper of the pub, Auntie Annie’s has been split into two; the standard front bar, dimly lit, booths/snugs and multi taps adorning the elongated bar to stand around and talk, (the black matt finish on the floors gives a layer of warmth) while the second half, parallel to Racecourse Road, is Enbarr, an upscale dining room, full table service and an elevated and upscale menu.

A visual treat is the double tap Guinness Harp, a first for Australia (to be sure, to be sure). The “black stuff” is lovingly treated and served accordingly (schooner $11).

Naturally Irish music fills the air (modern greats, Fontaines DC, feature alongside traditional songs of struggle as background), with a stage built to provide live performance across the weekend.

The hospitality is spot on, with a bevy of Irish expats ensuring needs are met. Promising start to the new venture.

MENU: Given there’s two menus, a brief run through of the bar offerings read as such; Starters: Seven to eight with bacon and cabbage croquettes, garlic aioli, “Tayto” crisps ($15), Otway pork sausage rolls (two/$18) w/Annie’s tomato relish, $18.

Mains: Around 12 to choose from; Pork and leek sausages, champ mash, caramelised onion gravy, crisp leeks ($30), Annie’s spice bag, $26, Annie’s secret spice mix, chicken pieces, w/capsicum, onion, chips, McDonnells Curry Sauce.

The Sunday roast is $34, a choice of beef/chicken/cauliflower but have roast spuds and Kerrygold mash (beautiful), Jameson glazed carrots, and other trimmings.

Average Prices:

Entrees/starters: $17

Mains: $30

Desserts: $15

Surcharges: None displayed.

Beer: Schooners, $11

Wine: $14pg

Roast: $34 (Sunday)

The wine list is well lengthy, bottles aplenty, options fewer per glass. Loads of different varietals from smaller producers. Long Story Short Chardonnay (Red Hill), $15pg, and very easy drinking.

Tab: No
Pokies: No

Jack Ginnivan Steak Index (JGSI): This week; 250gm Bass Strait porterhouse, onion rings, chips, salad, or veg with sauce, $46.

HIGHLIGHT/S:

(From Enbarr dining): Entree: Scallops, pan seared, cauliflower puree, bacon, black pudding, $28/four pieces. This was a wonderful special, given the detail of the supporting cast working in harmony into the shell of each scallop (two pieces/shell). Hope this is maintained as it is a wonderful starter.

Also the oven roasted chicken, two large pieces, Kerrygold mash, heirloom carrot, stuffing ball, duck fat potatoes, chicken jus, $40. Great main, lovely plate.

Something Different to Eat: Entree: Soda bread, onion butter, $8. Densely pack, great crust and the onion butter tops it off. You’ll order a second (or you can buy and take home in a small bottle, along with Jameson glaze).

Summary: Impressive start to Aunty Annie’s, even more so to the owners, who stumped up to keep the pub going, and with two other pubs revitalised (Doutta Galla/Laurel) the competition within a two kilometre radius, is never hotter.

The two distinct areas of the pub seem to work well but Enbarr is the higher level/ better food offering, with the Annie’s bar chugging along nicely. And if Irish whiskey is a passion, you will be sated with a wide variety, styles, ages, locations completing the package here.

A most enjoyable experience.