Kokoras

27 Ballarat Street, Yarraville

Can you ever really say you’ve found the best charcoal chicken in Melbourne, or are we all just rusted on to our local? Because everyone reckons their corner shop is the one. The one with the best chips, the best seasoning, the best chook. I drove 30 minutes to eat here again because the first time I tried Kokoras, I walked away convinced it might actually be the best. That’s a big call, but I stand by it. If your local spot can genuinely compete, I want to hear about it.

This place sits just off the village in Yarraville, on Ballarat Street. It has that slightly tucked away, locals-know-about-it feel. Not flashy, not trying too hard, just quietly confident.

The interesting part is who’s behind it. The owner is Alex Xinis, and if that name rings a bell it should. Hellenic Republic, The Press Club, proper Melbourne hospitality pedigree. Not someone who does things by halves.

I actually came across his cooking by accident at Tzaki, a modern Greek spot nearby. Sat at the bar, got chatting, ended up sharing food with strangers and taking recommendations from the bar staff. One of those effortlessly great hospitality moments.

At the time they mentioned they were opening a charcoal chicken shop a couple of doors down. Same philosophy, just stripped back. And that’s exactly what Kokoras is.

They’ve even gone old school with how they run it. You can order online, sure, but they’ve also got a proper landline. You can ring up, speak to a human, sort it out. Delivery is handled in house too, within about five kilometres. No apps, no middlemen. It feels very Melbourne ten years ago in the best possible way.

The shop itself is simple. A few stools if you want to perch and eat, but it’s mainly takeaway. You grab your food, maybe wander back to the Sun Theatre or sit in the square if the weather’s playing nice.

Now, the chicken. Because that’s why we’re here.

They take their time with it. The birds are butterflied, brined for hours with herbs and spices like rosemary, lemon, oregano, coriander seed and even a touch of cinnamon. Then they go over charcoal. Proper charcoal. While they’re cooking, they’re brushed with rosemary-infused ghee, then finished with a punchy baste of lemon, mustard, oregano and olive oil.What you end up with is chicken that’s smoky on the outside, juicy all the way through, and actually tastes like it’s been thought about. Not just salt and heat, but layers of flavour.

The KK plate is the one to order if you’re going in for the full experience. Spatchcocked lemon and oregano chicken, pickles, a grain salad, tzatziki and soft flatbread. It’s generous without being over the top, and everything on the plate has a role.

The sides are where a lot of chicken shops fall over, but not here. The wood roasted lemon potatoes are spot on. Crispy edges, soft centres, plenty of seasoning. The cucumber salad is fresh, sharp with lemon, and loaded with dill. It cuts through the richness perfectly.

There’s also a rotisserie cauliflower steak which sounds like it might be there just to tick a box, but it’s actually excellent. Properly cooked, good texture, full of flavour.

They do what they call GFC, Greek Fried Chicken tenders. You can get them with a chilli, lemon and honey glaze. Extra golden crispy on the outside but you already know it’s not dry AT ALL. They are dangerously easy to keep eating.

The chips come dusted in ouzo salt. That might sound a bit gimmicky, but it works. Subtle, a little bit aromatic, and very moreish. And there’s one thing you have to get, the K.O. lemon chilli sauce. Sharp, spicy, a bit addictive. It lifts everything on the table.

They’ve even put some thought into the drinks, with small batch soft drinks from Mischief Brew. It’s not just a fridge full of the usual suspects.

What Kokoras does really well is take something every Melburnian thinks they know, charcoal chicken, and just tighten every part of it. Better ingredients, more care, a bit more attention to detail. But it still feels like a local chicken shop. It hasn’t lost that casual, drop in and grab dinner appeal.

So back to the question. Is it the best charcoal chicken in Melbourne?

I’m not sure anyone can say that definitively, because every suburb will argue their case until the end of time. But I will say this. It’s the one I’m willing to sit in traffic for, and in Melbourne that’s probably the highest compliment you can give.

Images: Supplied