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Kent Hotel

Where: 370 Rathdowne St, Carlton North

Phone: 7048 0981

Internet: www.kenthotel.com.au

SCORE: 16/20

MARCH 13

VENUE: The Kent has been a staple of pub-life in Carlton for decades, so it was a surprise when trading became interrupted in recent times.

This was a pub that delivered high end pub food, at a slightly higher price, always crammed with diners, with smallest bar to stand around (if you could be squeezed in). Its territorial advantage was the al fresco dining area of both Rathdowne Street (one of Melbourne’s prettiest) and Curtain Square (off Rathdowne). Just wonderful.

Eight years has passed since a last review, but the feel and hospitality remains at the (pub) cutting edge in Melbourne, with one main difference. The “Public “ bar has been decluttered (there’s some perimeter dining), to embrace a more traditional feel and make it a locals haunt.

Seven days a week, meals until late, hard yards, as the new group is determined to present this version the equal of any past.

Dining is moved to the second room, properly set out, cloth napkins, heavy cutlery etc, and in full view of the kitchen. Table service is delivered in spades.

The early indicators show much promise. If looking for a special occasion in a pub, The Kent in Rathdowne is the equal of any in Melbourne.

MENU: This is better level pub food, all the favourites with a real dash added that elevates each one to wonderful dining. A random selection is offered.

Starter: Pumpkin and taleggio arancini, Calabrian chilli aioli, sage and pecorino (four/$19) or ocean trout ceviche, rockmelon, radish, shallot, chilli and smoked caviar, $25.

Main: Roast Bannockburn chicken, charred sweet corn and zucchini, spring onion salsa and tarragon jus, $39.

Dessert: Apple pie to share, salted caramel and two scoops of vanilla ice cream, $25. A properly made pie for two, and a must have from the menu.

The basics of a pub, read as front bar, delivering fine beer and wine doesn’t miss, and a feature of the pub (not advertised enough) is the $9 happy hour for wine on Fridays.

Ten rotating taps, CD your starter at $7.5/pot. Wine list is extensive.

Average Prices:

Entrees/starters: $23

Mains: $35

Desserts: $18

Surcharges: 15 per cent public holidays

Beer: Carlton, $7.5/pot

Wine: $16 pg

Roast: (N/A, yet)

Tab: No
Pokies: No

Jack Ginnivan Steak Index (JGSI): This week; Kent Hotel 250g striploin, MB2 Bass Strait, pasture fed, chips, sauce, $42.

HIGHLIGHT/S:

Main: Beer battered fish, hand cut chips, mixed leaf salad, honey mustard dressing, tartar and malt vinegar $36. Absolute top notch barramundi, light batter, big serve, great supporting act. Yes it is a bit more in price, but it’s a higher level.

Something Different to Eat: Morton Bay bug roll, celery, watercress, kewpie and old bay, $24. An absolute treat, packed with the aforesaid shellfish, great additions with this combination of flavours on the freshest brioche. A beautiful, indulgent (yes!), starter.

Summary: This is an outstanding return to form. It still puzzles how this pub had an interrupted trade in recent times, but now with a less cluttered, more traditional front, and a cosy, well spaced dining room, this was a fine experience from start to finish.

And the added benefit? The equal (the other O’Connell’s, South Melbourne) best footpath to wine and dine and watch the world of Rathdowne Street, slowly pass.

Early contender for Pub of the Year finalist.