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Albion Hotel

Where: 314 Smith St, Collingwood

Phone: 9965 0996

Internet: www.albionhotel.pub

SCORE: 15.5/20

APRIL 10

VENUE: The Albion Hotel, Collingwood is fabulous. One of the best, yet understated renovations has taken place here in a street that, if you were not a local, was largely eschewed as a haven for ne’er-do-wells (to put it kindly).

Even this pub’s former life as the Punters Palace, had a touch of ‘only if you must’, although once inside it had an arcane charm to it. This iteration of the Albion, headed up by the much loved team at Bodriggy, has taken on a new life to be one of inner Melbourne’s best.

From the now desirable Smith St, you are greeted almost immediately by a squat rectangular bar, with half height shiny green tiles welcoming you. Even before entering, the exterior colour scheme of the Albion, reminds you of the Brisbane Bears away jumpers, circa 1988.

To the left is a smallish dining area, kitchen exposed. To the right, the ‘public’ side has raised tables for conversation and drinking with more functional tables and chairs to dine further on.

All leading to this compact, neat courtyard; A most pleasant spot to take in the footy.

The Albion is a beautiful step back in time, with an offer remaining firmly among the best in 2026.

MENU: Short, with pub flair sums it up.

All tastes/preferences catered for with interesting starters such as;

-Albion beef and pork sausage roll, wholegrain mustard ($21), or fried mozzarella sticks, Korean chilli jam ($18) are a couple of highlights that include a fish cake, curry sauce, $15.

Move to mains, and no pub can do without its Sunday roast ($35) and the Albion’s on a rotating basis doesn’t shrink by comparison in quality and size.

Different? Pastrami spiced duck leg, smashed cucumber, peanut hummus ($33), or an old favourite, fried barramundi, chips, crushed peas, tartare, $33 are among say eight choices.

Taps beers, naturally are provided by Bodriggy, the Albion Lager, $11/schooner//$14/pint tried and thoroughly enjoyed.

Wine list, short/interesting with approx six red/whites per glass e.g, Riesling Freak #4 ( a beauty) @ $16pg, or Larnook Shiraz, $14pg. Both were so good.

Average Prices:

Entrees/starters: $18

Mains: $33

Desserts: $12

Surcharges: 10 per cent Sundays/15 per cent public holidays

Beer: Bodriggy, $11/schooner

Wine: $15pg

Roast: $35

Tab: No
Pokies: No

Jack Ginnivan Steak Index (JGSI): This week; Albion Hotel, Collingwood 250g O’Connor Flank, chips, sauce, $39 (salad/fried egg plus $5).

HIGHLIGHT/S:

Main: Beef cheek, onion, pie, garden salad, chips ($35). Massive, made on premises, meat properly stewed, sweet onions supporting, a proper pub pie and like everything else here, is perfectly placed. Topped off by a fresh salad, hot chips, this dish is a winner.

Something Different to Eat: Natural oysters (Sundays $3 each). What a bargain!! Sundays only, sourced from Tasmania, properly served and chilled, with a choice of a sharp vinegar/red onion dipper or gin and
tonic gel, this is as fair a price anywhere in Melbourne. More power to them.

Summary: In a short space of time, the renovated, revitalised Albion Hotel, Collingwood, is an unmitigated hit with young and old punters alike, such is its widespread appeal.

A loving throwback and a thoroughly modern offer is seamlessly achieved here.

The food and drink is spot on, the service is friendly and yes, there’s an appeal in grabbing a table in Smith St and watching the passing parade. For free.

Having reviewed pubs since 1996, of all the streets in Melbourne, Smith, between Gertrude and Johnston would have been the least likely in my mind to receive such gentrification.

Now one of the most desirable, the new owners are being repaid in spades.

Just go. Contender for Pub of the Year honours.