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Station Hotel

Where: 59 Napier St, Footscray

Phone: 9810 0085

Internet: www.thestationhotel.com.au

SCORE: 15/20

APRIL 24

VENUE: The Station Hotel in Footscray has been a grand stayer on Melbourne’s pub scene for at least three decades, establishing a course of high quality steaks, better level service and creating an environment that is the envy of many.

De Bortoli’s Pub of the Year in 2008, under the guidance of Sean Donovan, the standard was established. For sure it pitched higher in price to match the quality of produce, but that was no deterrent to the crowds that flocked there.

And 18 years on, the Station rolls on beautifully. Another in the portfolio of AVC, (Aust. Venue Co), this pub is very much their flagship in Victoria. It doesn’t miss a beat.

The pub itself (trading seven days from midday on) is one large area (front bar) and dining room, separated by a large serving area. It is comfortable, well worn, cosy. The staff is slightly older (by design?), so nothing has been left to chance.

The pub rolls on, without any service faults. For example, I was told the wait would be around 30-40 minutes, given the demand. No problems, 25 minutes later, our meals arrived.

There is a large beer garden, pretty, and on Sundays, a small petting zoo is brought along with face painters (no age restrictions if that’s your thing!!).

The Station is still a flagship pub of Melbourne.

MENU: Where to start? Here’s a select three courses for example;

Entree:
-Fried Calamari ($23) pickled fennel, aioli, lemon or chorizo/manchego croquettes ($23), harissa mayo, gruyere, chives.

Main:
-Mushroom and fennel pie, served with truffle mash, greens, pepper sauce ($34), or pan roasted barramundi ($43), bouillabaisse, samphire, mussels, calamari, butter beans, chat potatoes, chives, lemon.

Dessert:
-Dark chocolate and raspberry delice ($19), strawberries, toasted coconut, raspberry sorbet.

This is a mere sample. Beer was good, but a little over ($8.30)/pot. And the wine list is extensive and sourced internationally.

Paloma Riesling $15pg provided the value, as did St Huberts Pinot Noir at $17pg.

Given its reputation for steak, the red section covers all bases.

Average Prices:

Entrees/starters: $23

Mains: $38 (steaks from $51, fully plated)

Desserts: $19

Surcharges: 15 per cent public holidays

Beer: Carlton D pot, $8.30

Wine: $17 pg

Roast: $38

Tab: No
Pokies: No

Jack Ginnivan Steak Index (JGSI): This week; Station Hotel, Footscray 300g O’Connor porterhouse MS2 + $51, fully plated, sauce.

HIGHLIGHT/S:

Main: Crumbed veal schnitzel ($38), house slaw, chips, parmesan, chives. Large, well seasoned fillet, cooked golden brown, tasty, fabulous back up band, with an excellent slaw, this one was a fine representation. Right sized, perfectly flattened (not as tasty when it’s too thick), well executed.

Something Different to Eat: Rostbiff tartare, $26 game chips, tabasco (entree). Haven’t seen this before on a pub menu, and the pairing with tabasco is exciting. Different for sure if you are seeking rare beef.

Summary: After all these years, two pubs are the flagbearers for pub steaks in Melbourne. The Railway Club, South Melbourne, and here at The Station, Footscray.

And it raises a question? Why are there not more aiming for this crown? The clientele is established, both pitch differently, but consistency of offer ensures success at both venues.

The Station is a wonderful pub, and going from independent operators (Greg/Sean), to a big company (AVC), has been seamless.

Treat yourself, head there and enjoy.