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Pub of the Week: Albion Hotel, North Melbourne

pub of the week
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Press PLAY to listen to Tony Leonard’s full review

Albion Hotel

Where: 171 Curzon St, North Melbourne

Phone: 9326 6575

Internet: Facebook

SCORE: 13.5/20

MAY 8

VENUE: In endeavouring to sum this small, durable, old boozer up, it is safe to say that there’s not too many like the Albion Hotel, North Melbourne in Melbourne and in wider Victoria.

Basically this is a one area operation, all ground level, with a dining room in one half, the bar in the other with a small kitchen, doing its best in tight surroundings, visible.

A small beer garden extends the area, but essentially this is it. Good pub though, as the husband and wife team keep ticking the Albion over steadily, with a warm welcome.

Indeed the late and lamented Elms Family in Spring St (much smaller again) had these vibes. No bells and whistles, just good old fashioned hospitality.

A decade has passed since a last visit and to my eye, nothing looks to have changed, only slightly older functional tables, chairs, carpets, etc. The decor is interchangeable with any old pub you have visited.

Limited socials (FB rather than website) that are occasionally updated – Steak night Tuesdays, $29, fully plated), doesn’t reveal a great deal about the pub and its operations (perhaps that’s the way they want it!).

But if going to a pub for a catch up/socialising, enjoying a reliable offer from owner/operators doing their best to make you comfortable, then the Albion in North Melbourne is spot on.

MENU: Really the menu is as straightforward as they come. Starters number four (breads/chips), three seafood (flathead, calamari, salmon), four steaks, and some pub favs from the grill. A lone dessert – SDPudding ($10) adorned the specials board.

But there’s no denying the size of the plate offered at reasonable prices, will suit appetites and budgets.

Large chicken parma (with a pot) is $32, halloumi burger w/roasted pumpkin, pesto, lettuce, $24, and one from the ark, spaghetti bolognaise @ $25.

The taps are a shrine to CUB, and the flagship – Draught – is served perfectly @$8. There’s no wine list per se, but an interesting glass from Maxwells, South Australia, is its Shiraz at $12. The clever name? Silver Hammer.

Average Prices:

Entrees/starters: $14

Mains: $30 (steaks from $40)

Desserts: $10

Surcharges: None displayed

Beer: Carlton D Pot, $8

Wine: $12pg

Roast: No

Tab: No.
Pokies: No

Jack Ginnivan Steak Index (JGSI): This week; Albion North Melbourne 300g grain fed porterhouse, $40. Chips/salad extra.

HIGHLIGHT/S:

Main: Beef sausages, mash, peas, gravy, $29. Big snags with big flavour, superb mash, stack of gravy. It’s cold/you see them/you want them.

Something Different to Eat: Mixed grill, $47. This is the pub’s chart topper, arriving plated with steak, beef patty, sausage, chicken, bacon, egg, chips, gravy, salad (for balance). Self explanatory: Be my guest.

Summary: The Albion is a beaut, with the Romanesque columns and peeling brickwork exterior inviting and welcoming. Inside it is as you remember from years past.

An issue is a frustrating lack of information about the pub, exacerbated by the fact there’s a great story to tell about the Albion. C’mon Team, come into the 21st Century. It will be worth it.

The Albion is a pub to love.

pub of the week
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