Press PLAY to listen to Tony Leonard’s full review

Excelsior Hotel

Where: 82 Mahoneys Rd, Thomastown

Phone: 9326 6575

Internet: www.theexcelsiorhotel.com.au

SCORE: 11/20

MAY 15

VENUE: Cavernous, massive, made up of many parts, the Excelsior has long traded in the northern suburbs, doing what most big pubs do, and that is try to be all things to all people. Food and drink specials daily, plenty of live sport, plenty of drink specials, accommodation on site.

The Excelsior offers a stack of deals across the week.

Think of any big pub outside 10-12 kms of the CBD and you have the template with some moving with the times to suit a changing demographic and some more than content to stay where they have been since day dot. The Excelsior falls into the latter.

Food and drink prices are fair, some staff switched on/others will get around to serving you when they are ready, all this with a cacophony of sound whirring from the games room.

The Excelsior is OK, but with some TLC can exponentially rise and deliver a better delivery of hospitality.

MENU: Here’s a couple of highlights from the menu;

Entrees: Pumpkin, feta and thyme arancini with shaved parmesan and truffle mayonnaise ($16), lamb kofta with pickled cabbage, mint hummus grilled flat bread ($16)

Mains: Crumbed schnitzel, chips, salad, lemon and gravy, barramundi, mashed potato, buttered greens and lemon caper butter sauce ($32). Beef and ale pie, slow-cooked beef, rich ale gravy, flaky pastry, mashed potato, buttered green peas ($26).

There was a stonkingly good special – Oysters 6/$24. The problem was they arrived at room temperature, and served on a bed of lettuce that had seen better days. (This is common across a lot of pubs: Please do not serve garnishes/salad that have passed their use by.) Hmmm. The taste was OK, but not at its optimum.

Beer, mainly popular brands were well served, and in the vast dining room, I asked for a wine list, only to be told it’s a pick of the board. Jim Barry, Watervale Riesling, 250g (they do 3 sizes), was $20.80.

Average Prices:

Entrees/starters: $15

Mains: $29 (steaks from $29)

Desserts: $12

Surcharges: None displayed

Beer: Carlton D Pot, $6.8

Wine: $10pg

Roast: No

Tab: Yes
Pokies: Yes

Jack Ginnivan Steak Index (JGSI): This week; Excelsior Thomastown 250g grain fed porterhouse, $29. Chips/salad//mash/veg/sauce.

HIGHLIGHT/S:

Main: Excelsior club sandwich, $28. Chicken, bacon, fried egg, tomato, lettuce, onion jam, toasted turkish bread, campfire sauce, cheese and chips.

Big size, tasty, although the oregano dominated the chicken, but for a shared snack, this was fine, served by a staff member (Shahia) who loved her job.

Something Different to Eat: Excelsior share plate, $39. BBQ pork ribs, mozzarella planks, garlic bread, lemon pepper calamari, chicken wings and aioli.

If gathering for an afternoon over taking in the sports, then there’s plenty here for a good share. Another one that is self explanatory: Be my guest.

Summary: The commonly held view of big pubs in the burbs is it’s … ‘machines first, second, third and then maybe a focus on food/drink/hospitality’.

While that had relevance some time ago, pubs which form the monstrous Endeavour/ALH Group (around 350 in Australia) have, by and large, moved with the times. Shining examples of this are York on Lilydale, Burvale, Burwood, and Mail Exchange Melbourne.

Some though are stuck in old ways and The Excelsior is one such.

Just a bit of love, care, attention, can elevate this one above the tedium.