The Pinnacle Hotel

Where: 251 St. Georges St, North Fitzroy

Phone: 9000 0516

Internet: www.thepinnacle.melbourne

SCORE: 14.4/20

JULY 3

VENUE: Driving up on St. Georges Rd, just past one of Melbourne’s best independent grocers – Piedimonte’s and just past the Parkview Hotel – is a strange sight that looks like a medieval castle, straight out of the Holy Grail.

This is the Pinnacle Hotel, former Post Masters General’s office, that looks absolutely out of place by modern standards (by North Fitzroy though, it looks perfect).

Failed maths tells me this is a quasi equilateral triangle in shape: the pointy end housing the bistro, further through to pool parlour, then the kitchen, to the expanded rear section (hypotenuse?), the beer garden with various coverings for warm weather, and plenty of shade as well from the trees.

The Pinnacle falls into the most loved category from pub punters. Heavy timber and leadlight dominate the features; but modern touches, such as a record fair (yep) bring different and community.

Parms nights/steak/happy hour/trivia may be staples of pub life, but not in a setting like this. This is a pub that, since reopening, has gathered a loyal following, no better example: On a recent Sunday, tables were turned over twice with hungry diners. Happy times, very good pub, allow yourself to fall in love with the ‘Pinny’.

MENU: Sharp menu, not overdone in food and drink, but so interesting. This is not your standard pub menu seen in most suburban pubs.

Starters: Port Arlington mussels, tomato sugo, almond picata ($20), tempura tofu, kohlrabi ($15), are a couple of examples from a field of seven: Mains similar in number headed by grilled barra, braised fennel, pearl barley cous cous ($36), pan fried gnocchi with mushrooms, broccolini and olive pangrattato ($30) sit alongside a good looking parma/cheeseburger.

Carlton D headlines the taps ($8), but fine support from Hargreaves Hill ESB, Bodriggy Stingrays and Malt Donkey draught. Again interesting are the choices of varietals from smaller producers, e.g, Charlotte Dalton Fiano (SA) ($15), BC Cab/Sav, Faraday ($14).

Average Prices:
Entrees/Starters: $15
Mains: $30
Desserts: $15
Surcharges: Cards, yes. 10 per cent Sundays/PHs.
Beer: Carlton D Pot, $8
Wine: $15 pg
Roast: Sunday, $32
Tab: No
Pokies: No
Jack Ginnivan Steak Index (JGSI): This week; Pinnacle Nth Fitzroy
** Steak Night, Wed. Rump. Full Plate. $28. Note: Steak does not appear on the standard menu but as a special and can vary in price/size/cut.

HIGHLIGHT/S:
Main: Roast, $32. Plated with brussel sprouts, smashed chats, parsnip puree, gravy. Obviously on a rotating basis, the beauty is the succulent meat, with a support cast highlighted by maple sprouts.

Cold day, perfect setting for a Sunday roast, the offering from the Pinnacle is a winner.

Something Different to Eat: Starter: Smoked Feta/Potato Croquettes, $16. Made in house is an advantage. The flavours shine through, the croquettes slightly bigger than norm, and a tasty dipper of chilli mayo. Good share.

Summary: A constant source of fascination for this pub, just from its looks alone. The former post office doesn’t look like a pub, but once inside you get it. It is a magnificent throwback to an era long past, in a suburb (3065/66) that oozes pub class.

Since a re-opening this year, the warmth of a real community pub shines through, due to staff that want you to be at ease from the get go.

Nothing, in my opinion, looks like it in Melbourne, nay Victoria. It is unique. Go.