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The Laurel Hotel

Where: 289 Ascot Vale Rd, Ascot Vale

Phone: 8676 4501

Internet: www.laurelhotel.au

SCORE: 14/20

AUGUST 14

VENUE: The Laurel is the third pub in the area (other are Doutta Galla and Auntie Annies) to take on a new life/ownership/direction in the past 18-24 months.

Happy to report that this long time favourite ticks over nicely with the new chums making some serious cosmetic changes – the public bar has been flipped 180 degrees and the Kiosk TAB removed – with an increased emphasis on pub classics on the menu and the two dining rooms opened out and revitalised.

The old fashioned fireplaces still retain Laurel’s charm and no expense spared on creating a new look and levels of comfort. Even in its early stages, this two storey corner pub – upstairs for functions – has retained a loyal following and added some new chums.

The Laurel retains its sporting links with football and racing shown, but these have taken slightly lesser focus from previous ownership. The pub wants to encourage conversation and community and great to see a partnership with charity organisation Big Hug, helping out with some Christmas joy for the less advantaged.

A significant investment has been placed in a massive woodfired oven for pizzas, but the owners know their clientele; most nights have a special of pizza/steak/parma/trivia.

The pub honours its commitment to service with a seven days/week, full menu, from midday to 9:30pm.

This new version of the Laurel is off to a good and confident start.

MENU: Hearty pub grub with some nice twists, plenty of choice is on display with starters and mains.

Entrees include pork belly bites, sweet chilli glaze, crackling – $21, or popcorn buttermilk chicken, aioli – $19 are a sample from a field of 10 starters, while mains are big sized plates with favourites being beef (parwan), mushroom, ale pie, mash, peas, onion gravy, $34, or beer battered (Hop Nation Draught) rockling, fries/salad, $33.

A small specials board extends this out, and on day of dining, a smart entree of onion/potato/spinach fritter, tomato chutney ($15) was offered.

Ten tap beers – Carlton D/Hop Nation/Jetty Road, are supported by a similar amount of cans/stubbbies and the wine list is extensive, from $12pg, and lesser known labels are supported. Tope Dual Citizen Riesling, $15pg/60/bottle was tried and enjoyed.

Average Prices:
Entrees/Starters: $19
Mains: $34
Desserts: Rotating basis
Surcharges: Not shown
Beer: Carlton D Pot, $8
Wine: $14pg
Roast: $28
Tab: No
Pokies: No
Jack Ginnivan Steak Index (JGSI): This week; Laurel, Ascot Vale porterhouse, parwan prime, 250g, fries, salad, poppyseed dressing, $48.

HIGHLIGHT/S:
Main: Beef burger, cheese, bacon, onion, fries, burger sauce, $29.50. Normally a good staple of any pub menu, this burger was a notch above.

Tightly packed, generous, the meat cooked with a bit of blush in the middle (good), a proper meal with plenty of fillings. This was one of the better ones in recent times.

Something Different to Eat: Entrees: White anchovies, $19.5. With toasted ciabatta, feta, pepperonata, chives. This dish of higher quality anchovies is turning up repeatedly on pub starter menus.

Keeping good entrees under $20 is getting tougher, and anchovies well presented, offer this option. Acknowledge they aren’t for everyone, but give them a try. A special treat.

Summary: This iteration of the Laurel stands up well against its opposition and the slight change in direction – less emphasis on sport, more on community – is to be applauded.

The Laurel is off to a good start, but the nearest pub – The Ascot – is an outstanding venue under the Schultz family and has established itself as the best pub in the area.

Interesting times await to see if any of the ‘new three’ can wrest some business away.

For now however, the Laurel should be well pleased after a long period of stagnation.